The Thames: London's Original Highway and the Rise of the Watermen

For centuries, the River Thames was not merely a waterway; it was London's primary artery, its most efficient highway, and often, its only reliable means of crossing the sprawling city. Before the advent of robust road networks and the proliferation of bridges, navigating London and its environs was intrinsically linked to the ebb and flow of the Thames. The quickest and most convenient way to travel within the City, to cross the river, or to journey east or west from London was undeniably by water. London Bridge, the sole dry crossing in the immediate London area until the early 18th century, was notoriously narrow and perpetually congested. Roads leading into and out of the capital were often in a lamentable state, making the prospect of a ferry or a wherry, expertly rowed by a skilled waterman, a far more attractive proposition.

The Age of Water Transport

Following the decay of ancient Roman roads, goods were primarily transported by pack-horse, and personal travel was undertaken on horseback or on foot. Carriages began to appear on London's streets from the mid-16th century, but their presence quickly contributed to the burgeoning congestion. The movement of heavy goods, such as grain and coal, relied heavily on barges and ships navigating the Thames. John Stow, in his seminal work A Survey of London, published in 1598, noted the sheer scale of water-based transport at the time. He stated that there were "above the number, as is supposed, of 2000 wherries and other small boats, whereby 3000 poor men, at the least, be set on work and maintained." This was when London's population was a mere two hundred thousand, highlighting the immense reliance on watermen for both commerce and daily life.

Wherries, the quintessential vessels of the Thames watermen, could be hired at numerous "stairs" that led down to the river. At each of these embarkation points, watermen would gather, actively seeking custom, their calls of "oars oars sculls oars oars" echoing along the riverbanks. "Long ferries" provided a service for passengers travelling further along the river, for instance, between Billingsgate and Greenwich. The work of a passenger wherryman, ferryman, or bargeman on the Thames, in all weathers and tidal conditions, demanded a profound knowledge of the river and considerable skill. The tides themselves were expertly harnessed to achieve remarkably swift journeys up and down the river. These men, and indeed their families who often followed the same profession for generations, were a special breed, intimately connected to the pulse of the Thames.

Royal Barges and Noble Watermen

By the Tudor period, the riverside was dotted with royal palaces, including those at Windsor, Sheen, Hampton, Westminster, Bridewell, the Tower of London, and Greenwich. These residences were strategically located on or close to the river precisely because royal barges offered a swift and relatively easy means for monarchs and their entourages to travel between them. Similarly, many members of the nobility and senior clergy maintained palaces that fronted the river. These wealthy individuals, along with London's numerous Livery Companies, owned elaborate barges and employed a retinue of watermen to navigate them, showcasing their status and facilitating their movement across the city.

Ferry Services: Connecting the Capital

Regular ferry services operated at various points along the Thames, capable of transporting not only pedestrians but also horses and wagons across the river. A notable example was the Lambeth Horseferry, which facilitated travel between the Palace of Westminster and the Archbishop of Canterbury's Lambeth Palace. The Woolwich Ferry, mentioned in a document from 1308, gained increasing importance with the establishment of Henry VIII's dockyards at Woolwich and the Royal Arsenal ordnance depot. The ferry connecting Tilbury to Gravesend, linking Essex and Kent, boasts ancient origins. A historical anecdote from 1623 recounts how the Prince of Wales (later King Charles I) and the Duke of Buckingham, travelling incognito on this ferry, lacked the small change for the fare. Their attempt to pay with a gold piece led to their arrest as spies by the ferryman. Ferry services were lucrative and valuable businesses, typically owned by the Crown or an aristocrat, and were often passed down as part of an inheritance. The ferry owner would then lease the operating rights to a ferryman. Occasionally, the rights to a ferry service were sold for substantial sums.

The Conflict Between Bridges and Boats

The proposal of any new bridge invariably met with petitions against it from watermen and ferry owners, a primary reason why London Bridge remained the sole crossing for so long. When a bridge was eventually built, the bridge owner was obligated to pay significant compensation to the Watermen's Company for distribution amongst its members, and potentially to ferry owners as well. A different situation arose at Chelsea, where the ferry required considerable skill from its operators due to the river's current. In 1766, the inhabitants of Chelsea and Battersea petitioned the House of Commons, citing the danger and inconvenience of the ferry. The owner, Earl Spencer, recognising the potential for greater profit from a toll-bridge, sanctioned the construction of Battersea Bridge.

A ferry service connecting the City and Southwark predated the construction of the medieval London Bridge. One of London's enduring legends tells of Mary Overs, who inherited the ferry from her father, John. Overcome with grief at the death of her lover, she purportedly used the ferry's income to establish a convent, later becoming known as St. Mary Overy, which is today's Southwark Cathedral.

"Shooting the Bridge": A Waterman's Perilous Skill

The narrow arches and piers of the medieval London Bridge acted as a weir, impeding the flow of the river. Navigating a boat under the bridge when the tide was running was a dangerous undertaking, yet it became a speciality for some watermen who would "shoot the bridge." This perilous manoeuvre often resulted in drownings. Those wishing to travel along the river typically disembarked at a stairs, proceeded on foot past the bridge, and then took a new wherry or barge on the other side. The stairs at Three Cranes Wharf (above the bridge) and Billingsgate (below) were commonly used for this purpose.

The Evolution of the Watermen's Trade

The role of watermen extended beyond mere transportation. They were integral to the social and economic fabric of London. The Company of Watermen & Lightermen of the River Thames, founded in the sixteenth century, regulated the trade and ensured standards. By 1700, both watermen and lightermen were members of this livery company.

The Thames was London's thoroughfare and its divider. Watermen provided a vital service, enabling swift travel when roads were poor and facilitating crossings when bridges were few. Samuel Pepys's diary entry from December 27, 1667, famously notes his preference for water travel for speed: "went 'away by coach to the Temple and then, for speed, by water thence to White-hall."

The dexterity of watermen was renowned. A seventeenth-century witness described how "the wherries shoot along so lightly as to surprise everyone… They row like galley oarsmen, with extremely long oars, and are very dextrous at steering clear of each other." Wherries could be operated by a single waterman or with an apprentice and could be beached for easy passenger disembarkation.

Watermen were also known for their verbal prowess, engaging in lively calls to attract passengers and engaging in verbal jousting with rivals and other river users. César de Saussure, writing in 1725, observed that "the conversations you hear are most entertaining… Most bargemen are very skilful in this mode of warfare using singular and quite extraordinary terms, generally very coarse and dirty."

The Impact of Steam and New Bridges

By the time Henry Mayhew profiled Thames watermen in London Labour and the London Poor (1861), their numbers had begun to decline. The oar was increasingly being replaced by steam as the primary force on the river. An "old waterman" interviewed by Mayhew attributed their decline largely to the new London Bridge, stating, "When my old father heard that the old bridge was to come down, ‘Bill,’ says he, ‘it’ll be up with the watermen in no time. If the old bridge had stood, how would all these steamers have shot her? Some of them could never have got through at all. At some tides, it was so hard to shoot London Bridge (to go clear through the arches), that people wouldn’t trust themselves to any but watermen. Now any fool might manage. London-bridge, sir, depend on it, has ruined us.'"

Steamers also impacted the watermen's trade by deterring country visitors. A waterman recounted to Mayhew: "There’s very few country visitors take boats now to see sights upon the river. The swell of the steamers frightens them. Last Friday a lady and gentleman engaged me for 2s. to go to the Thames Tunnel, but a steamer passed, and the lady said, ‘Oh, look what a surf! I don’t like to venture;’ and so she wouldn’t, and I sat five hours after that before I’d earned a farthing… The good times is over… We’re beaten by engines and steamers that nobody can well understand, and wheels."

The Watermen's World

Mayhew described the watermen plying their trade at 75 stairs across London. Near the stairs below bridge, they would "stand looking out for customers, or they sit on an adjacent form, protected from the weather, some smoking and some dozing." He characterised them as "weather-beaten, strong-looking men, and most are of, or above, the middle age." Their attire varied, but often resembled a "sailor’s garb, such as a strong pilot-jacket and thin canvas trousers." Mayhew noted a change in their demeanour, with the "saucy (with occasional smartness)" of their predecessors replaced by "patient, plodding men, enduring poverty heroically, and shrinking far more than any other classes from any application for parish relief."

Watermen typically lived in "small streets near the river, usually in single rooms." At least three-quarters had apprentices, often sons or relatives, many of whom later became seamen in the merchant service or the Royal Navy.

Lightermen: The Cargo Carriers

Distinct from watermen, lightermen were responsible for transporting goods. They would "lighten" (unload) ships, transferring cargo to other vessels or to shore. Lightermen's boats were adapted for specific types of cargo, such as "corn, timber, stone, groceries and general merchandise," and they often specialised in a particular good. Some lightermen owned their own boats and enjoyed a more prosperous existence than the watermen, sometimes employing others and maintaining offices. Lightermen did not solicit business in the same way as watermen but would "board a recently arrived vessel ‘and offer their services to the captain … or they ascertain to what merchant or grocer goods may be consigned, and apply to them for employment in lighterage.'" Lighters, like barges, were reliant on the tide, often being moored in the middle of the river while waiting for the tide to turn, especially when carrying heavy articles.

The Legacy of the Thames Watermen

The history of Thames watermen is a fascinating glimpse into London's past, revealing a time when the river was the lifeblood of the city. Their skills, resilience, and intimate knowledge of the Thames shaped London's development and provided essential services for centuries. While their numbers have dwindled with the advent of modern transport, the legacy of the watermen endures as a testament to their crucial role in London's maritime heritage.

Key Figures

• John Taylor (1580–1653): Renowned as the "water poet," Taylor was a prominent waterman and writer.
• James A. Messenger (1826-1901): Served as Bargemaster to Her Majesty Queen Victoria.

Researching Watermen and Lightermen

For those interested in delving deeper into the history of Thames watermen and lightermen, many records are housed at the Guildhall Library. Crucially, most records predating the Great Fire of London in 1666 were lost. However, online resources such as FindMyPast offer datasets like 'Thames Watermen & Lightermen 1688-2010'. The Caird Library also holds published works on the subject, providing valuable insights into this vital historical profession.

Notable Waterways and Historical Sites

The Thames itself has a rich history, with many tributaries, some of which are now buried beneath the modern city. The Fleet, a significant forgotten tributary, once flowed into the Thames under Blackfriars Bridge and was navigable in Anglo-Saxon times. The river also served as a boundary between kingdoms and was a strategic point for trade and defence throughout history. The existence of "dene holes" – vast underground tunnels – along the riverbanks adds another layer of mystery and historical intrigue.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q1: What was the quickest way to cross the River Thames in historical London?
The quickest way was generally by water, using a wherry rowed by a skilled waterman, or by utilising ferry services. Roads were often in poor condition, and London Bridge was frequently congested.

Q2: What did watermen do?
Watermen transported people and their luggage across the Thames and along the river. They also acted as ferrymen and rowed barges. Lightermen, often part of the same guild, transported goods.

Q3: Why was the River Thames so important to London's transport?
For centuries, the Thames served as London's primary highway, facilitating both internal travel and trade with the continent. It was often quicker and more reliable than overland travel.

Q4: What challenges did watermen face?
They faced competition from new bridges and later from steam-powered vessels. They also contended with dangerous river conditions, including strong tides and the perils of "shooting the bridge."

Q5: Are there any records of historical Thames watermen available?
Yes, records are available at institutions like the Guildhall Library, and online through resources such as FindMyPast. Many records from before 1666 were lost in the Great Fire of London.

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