22/05/2023
Embarking on a journey from the historic city of Bukhara to the enchanting oasis of Khiva is a highlight for any traveller exploring Uzbekistan's legendary Silk Road. While the distance might seem substantial, connecting these two timeless gems is far simpler and more rewarding than you might imagine. This guide will walk you through the most convenient and popular ways to traverse the expanse between Bukhara and Khiva, ensuring your transition is as smooth and enjoyable as the destinations themselves.
- The Route to Khiva: Distance and Options
- By Taxi: A Direct and Dynamic Option
- By Train: A Comfortable and Scenic Alternative
- Comparing Your Travel Options
- Is Khiva Worth the Journey? Absolutely!
- Exploring Khiva's Delights: Things to Do
- Where to Stay in Khiva
- Where to Eat in Khiva
- Frequently Asked Questions About Travel to Khiva
- How long does the journey from Bukhara to Khiva typically take?
- Is it easy to book train tickets for the Khiva route?
- What are the pros and cons of taking a shared taxi versus the train?
- Is Khiva a walkable city, and what's the best way to explore it?
- What should I budget for entrance fees in Khiva?
- Conclusion
The Route to Khiva: Distance and Options
The distance separating Bukhara and Khiva is approximately 465 kilometres, a stretch that might initially appear daunting. However, rest assured, there are two primary and highly effective methods to bridge this gap: opting for a shared taxi or enjoying a comfortable train ride. Both offer unique experiences and cater to different preferences, making this segment of your Uzbek adventure easily manageable.
By Taxi: A Direct and Dynamic Option
For many travellers, taking a taxi from Bukhara to Khiva presents the most straightforward and often the quickest way to reach the ancient city. This method offers a direct connection, bypassing intermediate stops and getting you to your destination efficiently. The journey, while long, can be surprisingly swift depending on your driver and road conditions.
Finding Your Taxi in Bukhara
To secure a shared taxi to Khiva, your primary destination in Bukhara is the Kharvan Bazaar, conveniently located just outside the city centre, directly opposite the Mohitobon Hotel. This bustling hub is where drivers congregate, eager to fill their vehicles for the long haul. Shared taxis are a common mode of intercity transport in Uzbekistan, meaning you'll likely share the ride with other travellers heading in the same direction, making for a more economical trip.
Negotiating the Fare
Prices for shared taxis can vary, especially for tourists. While some drivers might initially quote around $20 per person, it's widely known among seasoned travellers that a fair price for this journey is closer to $10. Don't be afraid to negotiate firmly but politely. Information from local hostels often confirms this lower rate, giving you a solid basis for discussion. Sticking to your guns and knowing the local rates will ensure you pay a fair price for your journey.
Journey Time and Experience
The official estimated travel time by taxi is around 7 hours. However, anecdotal evidence suggests that drivers, keen to make good time, can sometimes complete the journey in a surprisingly short 4.5 hours. While this speed can be exhilarating and gets you to Khiva faster, it can also lead to a somewhat 'hair-raising' experience for those unaccustomed to the local driving style. Nevertheless, it's an authentic part of the Uzbek travel adventure and a highly efficient way to cover the distance.
By Train: A Comfortable and Scenic Alternative
The opening of a railway station in Khiva in 2018 significantly revolutionised travel to this isolated gem. Before this, travellers typically had to take a train to Urgench, the regional hub, and then complete the remaining 36.4 km to Khiva by taxi. Now, direct train services offer a more convenient and often more relaxing option, allowing you to sit back and watch the desert landscape unfold.
Train Frequency and Schedule
While direct trains to Khiva are available, they are not as frequent as services to larger cities. Currently, trains from Bukhara to Khiva operate on Mondays, Thursdays, and Saturdays. The train typically departs Bukhara at 12:24 pm and arrives in Khiva by 5:51 pm, making it a comfortable afternoon journey that allows you to arrive before sunset.
Ticket Prices and Booking
A seat on the train is remarkably affordable, starting from approximately 56,150 Som, which translates to roughly $6. Given the limited frequency of these direct services, it is highly recommended to book your tickets in advance. You can purchase tickets at any major train station across Uzbekistan or, more conveniently, online via the Uzbekistan Railways website. Be aware that while the website offers an English viewing option, you will still need to input the station names in Cyrillic. For your convenience, here are the Cyrillic spellings:
- Bukhara – БУХАРА 1
- Khiva – ХИВА
The Urgench Alternative
Even with direct trains to Khiva, some travellers might find it more convenient to take a train to Urgench, especially if direct Khiva trains don't align with their schedule. Urgench is a larger railway junction with more frequent services. From Urgench Train Station, it's an easy 32-kilometre taxi ride to Khiva, costing around 4 euro. This provides flexibility if you cannot secure a direct train ticket or if the timings are more suitable.
Comparing Your Travel Options
To help you decide between a taxi and a train, here's a quick comparison:
| Feature | Shared Taxi | Train |
|---|---|---|
| Cost (approx.) | $10-$20 per person | $6 per person |
| Journey Time (approx.) | 4.5 - 7 hours | 5.5 hours |
| Frequency | Daily, flexible departures | 3 times a week (Mon, Thu, Sat) |
| Comfort | Can be fast-paced; less legroom | More spacious; smoother ride |
| Booking | On the spot at Kharvan Bazaar | Recommended in advance (online/station) |
| Experience | Dynamic, potentially 'hair-raising' | Relaxed, scenic, comfortable |
Is Khiva Worth the Journey? Absolutely!
Khiva is sometimes overlooked by travellers to Uzbekistan, primarily due to its perceived remoteness from major hubs like Bukhara and Tashkent. After experiencing the grandeur of Samarkand and Bukhara, some might question whether Khiva can offer anything new. However, to bypass Khiva would be a significant oversight. This ancient city is a true marvel, a living museum where every street, minaret, and courtyard tells a story of centuries past.
The sheer concentration of stunning architecture within its walled city (Itchan Kala) is unparalleled. Its streets are filled with ornate madrasahs, towering minarets, and charming trinket shops, all contributing to an atmosphere that feels truly frozen in time. Khiva possesses a unique, almost fairytale-like quality that captivates visitors instantly. It truly stole our hearts and proved to be an unforgettable highlight of our Uzbek adventure.
Exploring Khiva's Delights: Things to Do
Once you arrive in Khiva, you'll find a compact yet incredibly rich city, perfect for exploration. During the hot summer months, many opt to explore in the cooler evenings, which also offers the benefit of stunning sunset views over the ancient buildings. The shifting colours of the sky – from fiery orange to soft pinks, blues, and purples – create a magical backdrop for photography and simply soaking in the atmosphere.
Key Sights Not to Miss:
- Kalta Minor: This strikingly vibrant, unfinished minaret is an iconic symbol of Khiva, adorned with beautiful turquoise tiles.
- Pakhlavan Mahmoud Mausoleum: A revered and exquisitely decorated shrine dedicated to Khiva’s patron saint, known for its stunning tilework.
- Djuma Mosque: Unique for its hundreds of intricately carved wooden columns, each one different, supporting its roof.
- Walk the Castle Walls: Climb atop the ancient fort walls for panoramic views of the city, especially breathtaking at sunset.
- View Khiva from a Watchtower: Ascend one of the city's many watchtowers for unparalleled vistas over the entire Itchan Kala.
- Khodja Minaret: Another impressive minaret offering fantastic views from its top.
- Shop for Cute Trinkets: Wander through the local stalls, perfect for finding unique souvenirs and gifts.
Important Note on Tickets: While many attractions within the Itchan Kala charge an entrance fee, you can purchase a comprehensive ticket that covers most of them. This ticket is available at the ticket office located at the West Gate. It costs 150,000 Som (approximately $15.90) and is valid for two days, allowing you ample time to explore at your leisure.
Where to Stay in Khiva
Finding the right accommodation can significantly enhance your Khiva experience. Staying within the castle walls offers unparalleled convenience and immersion in the city's ancient charm. We highly recommend Meros B&B, where we enjoyed a delightful 3-night stay. This centrally located property boasts a fantastic rooftop with amazing views over the city, perfect for relaxing and watching the sunset.
The friendly staff at Meros B&B provide an appetising breakfast each morning, along with refreshing cups of tea. The rooms are comfortable and often feature a private balcony for relaxation. Beyond the comforts, the staff are knowledgeable about Khiva and eager to offer valuable advice and tips for your trip, making it an ideal base for exploring the city.
Where to Eat in Khiva
Khiva offers a delightful culinary scene, with options ranging from rooftop dining with panoramic views to cosy, traditional eateries. Here are two establishments we particularly enjoyed:
- Terrassa Cafe: Located right in the centre of the ancient town, this three-story restaurant is hard to miss, especially with its inviting rooftop tables that provide stunning views of Khiva's architecture. Their club sandwiches are a standout, so delicious we returned for a second round!
- Khorezm Art Restaurant: While a bit trickier to find, the effort is well worth it for their delicious and affordably priced salads, perfect for a light lunch. The interior offers a cosy atmosphere, providing a welcome retreat from the midday heat.
Frequently Asked Questions About Travel to Khiva
How long does the journey from Bukhara to Khiva typically take?
By shared taxi, the journey is officially estimated at 7 hours, but can be as quick as 4.5 hours depending on the driver. By direct train, the journey takes approximately 5.5 hours.
Is it easy to book train tickets for the Khiva route?
Booking train tickets is relatively easy. You can purchase them at train stations across Uzbekistan or online via the Uzbekistan Railways website. Remember to use the Cyrillic spellings for station names when booking online.
Shared taxis offer more flexibility in departure times and can be faster, but the ride might be more intense, and you'll need to negotiate the price. Trains are more comfortable, cheaper, and offer a more scenic journey, but they run less frequently (3 times a week) and require advance booking.
Is Khiva a walkable city, and what's the best way to explore it?
Yes, Khiva's historic centre (Itchan Kala) is entirely walkable and best explored on foot. Most major attractions are within easy reach of each other. The best times to explore are early mornings or late afternoons/evenings to avoid the midday heat and to enjoy the beautiful light for photography.
What should I budget for entrance fees in Khiva?
A comprehensive ticket covering most of Khiva's attractions costs 150,000 Som (approx. $15.90) and is valid for two days. This is a very cost-effective way to see all the major sights.
Conclusion
Travelling from Bukhara to Khiva is an integral part of the Uzbekistan experience, linking two of the Silk Road's most captivating cities. Whether you choose the dynamic pace of a shared taxi or the tranquil comfort of a train, the journey itself is part of the adventure. Upon arrival, Khiva's unique charm, ancient architecture, and warm hospitality will undoubtedly make the effort entirely worthwhile, leaving you with lasting memories of this extraordinary desert oasis.
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