Retford: More Than Just a Name

The Enduring Enigma of Retford's Name

The origins of the name 'Retford' are shrouded in the mists of time, a subject that has sparked considerable debate among historians and etymologists. While definitive proof remains elusive, the prevailing consensus points towards an ancient ford that once crossed the River Idle. The spelling of the town's name has also seen significant variation throughout history, with early records often styling it as 'Redeforde' or 'Redforde'. A popular, albeit romantic, explanation for this nomenclature suggests that the river waters were tinged red due to the constant passage of people and livestock, churning up the clay riverbed. Alternative theories propose that the name might refer to the abundant reeds found along the riverbanks, or even that it alludes to the legendary Battle of the River Idle, where the waters were said to have run red with the blood of fallen warriors.

In 1908, local historian Edwin Wilmshurst put forth a compelling alternative theory. He posited that the name originated from a Roman road, or 'Strada', that traversed from Southampton to York. A branch of this significant Roman route, starting at Chesterfield, led to the Roman station of Lindum (Lincoln). This road, Wilmshurst argued, crossed the River Trent at Agelocum (now Littleborough) and then the River Idle via a ford, which he identified as still being used as a watering place for horses near West Retford Bridge. Thus, he concluded, the location would have been known as 'Street-Ford' or 'Streteford'. The enduring significance of Retford as a river crossing is further evidenced by the fact that one of its principal thoroughfares is still named 'Bridgegate'.

A Tale of Two Retfords: East and West

For much of its history, the town was officially known as 'East Retford', a designation that persisted until the borough's abolition in 1974. This was despite the fact that West Retford had been incorporated into the borough much earlier, in 1878. While the town's charter trustees continue to use the name 'East Retford', the Ordnance Survey now labels the entire urban area simply as 'Retford' on its maps, a convention mirrored by the Royal Mail's postcode system.

Retford's Economic Tapestry: From Agriculture to Aerospace

Retford has long served as a vital commercial hub for its surrounding region. The town boasts a diverse retail landscape, featuring large supermarkets alongside a wealth of independent shops. Its traditional market, held every Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, continues to be a focal point for local trade. In 2013, Retford's town centre exhibited a remarkably low empty shop rate of just 9%, significantly outperforming the national average at the time.

The modern economy of Retford is predominantly service-based, complemented by a degree of light industry. Key sectors contributing to employment include retail, healthcare, manufacturing, education, and hospitality. The town also demonstrates a notable concentration of jobs in the arts, recreational services, finance, and insurance industries. However, the economic landscape has undergone a significant transformation since the 1980s. Many of the town's long-established manufacturing and engineering firms, such as Jenkins Newell Dunford (engineering) and Bridon Ropes (wire rope), have ceased operations, reflecting a broader shift towards a service-oriented economy.

Despite these changes, Retford has maintained a remarkably low unemployment rate. In 2018, figures from Nottinghamshire County Council indicated unemployment rates as low as 1.3% in certain parts of the town, well below the Bassetlaw average and considerably lower than the national average of 4.4%. However, it is worth noting that, according to the 2011 Census, only 61% of Retford residents worked locally, suggesting that strong transport links facilitate commuting to neighbouring cities and towns such as Sheffield, Doncaster, Mansfield, and Lincoln, with some even travelling as far as London for employment.

Brewing Traditions and Modern Microbreweries

Historically, brewing played a significant role in the economy of the Bassetlaw area, with companies like the Worksop & Retford Brewing Company being prominent. Retford was also a recognised centre for hop trading. This heritage has seen a revival in recent years with the emergence of several microbreweries in and around the town, including Broadstone Brewery, Idle Valley Brewing, Harrisons Brewery, Pheasantry Brewery (in East Markham), and Springhead (in Laneham).

Key Employers and Industrial Heritage

Among the significant employers in Retford is Icon, a specialist aerospace components manufacturer located on Thrumpton Lane, which provides employment for over 200 individuals. Icon's origins trace back to The Northern Rubber Company, established in 1871 by Alfred Pegler. Another major presence in Retford is Langley Holdings, a diversified group with over 80 subsidiaries. Langley's businesses are involved in manufacturing components for the automotive industry, producing parts for Airbus wings, and supplying backup power solutions for data centres, among other activities. In 2012, Langley Holdings acquired the sheet-fed operations of the German printing press company Manroland Sheetfed out of insolvency.

Retford's Past: A Rural Market Town's Evolution

Unlike some of its neighbouring towns, Retford did not experience extensive industrialisation. It largely retained its character as a rural market town. Historically, its economy was driven by the trade of agricultural produce, but it also saw production of goods such as hats, sail-cloth, rope, sack bags, paper, and leather.

The Revolution Mill and Clarks of Retford

In 1788, Major John Cartwright, brother of the inventor of the power loom, established The Revolution Mill on Spital Hill. This ambitious steam-powered wool spinning and weaving mill employed approximately 600 people. However, the enterprise proved short-lived, and the site and machinery were sold at a considerable loss in 1805. Only one building from the original mill remains.

Hezekiah Clark, a dyer from Derby, came to work at Cartwright's mill in the 1780s. Following the mill's failure, he set up his own dyeing business in Retford in 1798, which eventually evolved into the well-known company Clarks of Retford. The business, which became renowned for its dry cleaning and laundry services and operated 138 shops before ceasing trading in the 1980s, is commemorated by a mural in Dyer's Court. The company's success was partly attributed to its significant reliance on female labour.

Paper Mills, Foundries, and Rubber Innovation

The Bolham Paper Making Company was a notable enterprise, producing glazed papers, shop papers, and various types of boards. The mid-19th century saw the establishment of new paper mills, including one on Albert Road in 1867. Foundries and ironworks also became part of Retford's industrial fabric. The Beehive Works was constructed in Thrumpton in 1873, and William Bradshaw established his Carr Foundry on Albert Road, specialising in heating and rainwater pipes, gutters, stoves, fireplaces, and general engineering castings.

The late nineteenth century witnessed the introduction of new technologies with the founding of the Northern Rubber Company by Alfred Pegler in 1871. The factory's strategic location near a crucial railway junction contributed significantly to its prosperity.

The Significance of Hop Growing

The agricultural land surrounding Retford was historically important for hop cultivation, a practice dating back to the 17th century. Retford held the distinction of being the most northerly hop fair in the country, a position of particular economic importance until the advent of rail transport began to erode traditional market boundaries. The 'North Clay' hops, named after the North Clay Division of which Retford is a part, were considered superior to Kentish hops and were used in the brewing of the original Nottingham Brewery's bitter beers. While the acreage dedicated to hop cultivation was substantial at the beginning of the 19th century, it had dwindled to just 29 acres by 1880, and hops are no longer commercially grown in the area.

The Pivotal Role of Women in Retford's Economy

Women have historically played a crucial role in the economic life of Nottinghamshire, contributing significantly to industries such as lace making and farming. In Retford, women were consistently active in the workforce, and several businesses, including the aforementioned Clarks of Retford, were heavily reliant on female labour.

Brewing and Public House Management

For centuries, until the Black Death, women were the primary producers of beer in the UK, often referred to as 'brewsters'. Brewing was a vital industry in Nottinghamshire, encompassing everything from hop cultivation and brewing to the selling of beer. Women in Retford were actively involved in all facets of this trade, with many historic pubs being managed by women. Evidence of women's entrepreneurial spirit is also apparent in the historical directories, which list numerous women-owned businesses.

A Spectrum of Trades and Public Service

Historical records from 1828 and 1831 highlight women engaged in various trades in Retford. Miss Elizabeth Barker ran the Post Office in Grove Street in 1828, followed by Mrs Elizabeth Taylor in 1831. The postal service itself appears to have historically employed a significant number of women, with 'Old Betty Chapman' noted as having distributed letters within living memory.

The 1831 directory lists women as grocers (Mary Clark, Catherine Dean), boat owners (Mary Stocks), stay makers (Mrs Jane Taylor, Frances Holliday, Susanna Slaney, Elizabeth Wilkinson), farmers (Faith Walker), booksellers (Margaret Holderness), shoemakers (Ellen Lawrence), and China and Glass dealers (Mary Burley). Additionally, several women were involved in straw hat making (Ann Appleby, Ann Colbeck, Sarah Graves, Mary Penington, Susan Penington), and many served as shopkeepers (Ann Burton, Mary Chester, Jane Walker). Several Retford public houses were also under the management of landladies during this period.

Pioneering Women in Local Governance and Public Life

The early 20th century saw women breaking barriers in local governance. Mrs Ellen Gentle Howell, born in 1872, was the first female councillor on Retford Town Council, elected in 1926 and subsequently serving as Mayoress. It wasn't until 1951 that a woman, Mrs M E Williamson JP, became Mayor of Retford in her own right. Mrs Williamson also held significant positions as Chair of Governors of Retford High School for Girls and was the first female Alderman on Retford Town Council in 1961. Miss Grace M Bradshaw was recognised as the first female magistrate in Retford, serving on both the Retford Borough Bench (from 1933) and the Retford County Bench (from 1934). She also chaired the Governors of the County High School for Girls and was secretary of the Retford Ladies Health Association.

The vital contributions of the WVS (Women's Voluntary Service) in Retford during World War II are commemorated by a plaque at Retford train station. Between March 1940 and March 1946, the WVS served an impressive 2,284,000 meals to HM and Allied Forces in their canteen and rest room facilities.

Transport in Retford

Retford benefits from excellent transport links, making it an accessible and well-connected town. The presence of a railway station provides regular services to major cities, facilitating both commuting and leisure travel. The town is also served by a network of roads, including major routes that connect it to the wider region.

Leisure, Entertainment, and Sporting Pursuits

Retford offers a variety of options for leisure and entertainment, catering to diverse interests. The town is home to a range of sporting facilities and clubs, promoting active lifestyles among its residents.

Bowling

For enthusiasts of flat green bowling, Retford provides several options. Facilities are available at Goosemoor Lane and within King's Park, managed by Bassetlaw Council, as well as at Hallcroft. Local teams from Retford and surrounding areas, including Worksop, compete in The Retford and District Bowls League. The Goosemoor Bowling Greens are home to the Goosemoor Bowls Club, which participates in the Retford & District, Goosemoor Afternoon League, and the Worksop Friday League. The King's Park Bowling Greens host the Retford Park Bowls Club. Retford Bowling Green Limited, established in 1897, offers both lawn and short mat bowling on a nine-rink green, complemented by a spacious clubhouse.

Cricket

The Retford Town Cricket and Sports Club, founded in 1850, moved to its current ground in 1858. The club was a founding member of the Bassetlaw Cricket League in 1904. While their inaugural match was against Whitwell Colliery, they had to wait until 1984 to claim their first League Division 1A Championship. Retford has a notable history of developing players who have achieved recognition at county and even international levels, including the well-known cricketer Derek Randall.

Fitness and Health

Retford is well-equipped to support fitness and health goals, with numerous gymnasiums, spas, and health and beauty centres available. The Retford Leisure Centre provides a comprehensive range of aquatic activities, including lane swimming, fun swims, and water aerobics, alongside its gym facilities. For younger residents and those seeking outdoor recreation, Retford boasts a small skate park within King's Park. The town also encourages walking and cycling, with a selection of well-maintained and clearly signposted routes. The 46-mile Cuckoo Way, which follows the course of the Chesterfield Canal, passes through Retford.

In 2021, Retford launched a men's 'walk and talk' group, aimed at supporting male mental health within the community. These walks are coordinated by the Bassetlaw Action Centre, with one taking place at Idle Valley every second Saturday of the month and another at King's Park every fourth Saturday.

Football

Retford is home to two senior football clubs. Retford United F.C., formed in 1987 and affectionately known as 'The Badgers', competes in the United Counties League Division One, playing their home games at Cannon Park on Leverton Road. Retford F.C., established in 2015 and nicknamed 'The Choughs', plays at the SL2 Rail Stadium on Babworth Road, also in the United Counties League Division One. In July 2020, Retford F.C. achieved FA Charter Standard Community Club status.

Both clubs have thriving junior sections, with Retford F.C. having taken over Ordsall Rangers in the summer of 2019. Babworth Rovers, a well-established junior football team, is located on the outskirts of the town and draws players from Retford and the surrounding villages.

Golf

Situated on the southeastern edge of the town, Retford Golf Club is a private members' club founded in 1921. The original six-hole course was designed by Tom Williamson and laid out on 38 acres of land leased from Colonel Sir Albert Whitaker of Babworth Hall, in an area known locally as Whisker Hills. Two additional holes were opened in 1958 by Sir Stuart Goodwin, and a further nine holes were added in 1990. The current course offers a varied landscape, incorporating open parkland, oak-lined fairways, and changes in elevation, making it a popular destination for golf societies from across the East Midlands and South Yorkshire.

Racing

Retford has a history of horse racing, with the East Retford Cavalry Races being held between 1849 and 1864. Race meetings were also organised in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. In 1868, a race meeting was held where the Sandbeck Farmers Stakes was won by a horse named Gobbo, and the Retford United Hunt Steeplechase was won by Gladiateur. Following a decade-long hiatus, meetings resumed in 1877 on land owned by the 7th Viscount Galway, north of the town. These meetings featured various races, including the Nottinghamshire Steeplechase and the Retford Steeplechase. Efforts were made to boost attendance, including train excursions and a Tenant Farmers lunch followed by free race passes. The Retford Hunt Committee oversaw these meetings until 1913, with racing suspended during World War I and resuming in 1921. The final meeting took place in 1928, after which the land was sold to cover debts. The Retford Handicap was subsequently transferred to Southwell Racecourse, where it continued to be run until the early 2000s.

Rugby

Founded in 1952, the East Retford Rugby Union Football Club competes in the Midlands League Division. The club celebrated its Golden Jubilee in 2002. Its early grounds included a pitch at Hard Moors, followed by a pitch at Ranby Camp. In 1966, the club secured a long-term rental agreement with the Anglian Water Authority for land at Ordsall Road, which provided space for three pitches on flat, well-drained land. The club purchased the majority of this ground in 2000. Currently, East Retford Rugby Union Football Club operates two senior teams and a highly successful junior section, catering for players from minis up to under 16s, for both boys and girls.

Snooker

Retford maintains a long-standing snooker league, structured into two divisions, providing a competitive platform for local players.

Swimming

The Retford Swimming Club represents the town and its surrounding area in competitive swimming. Established in 1896, the club trains swimmers and participates in galas against other teams in Nottinghamshire within the Sports Centre League, competing in Division 1. The club also hosts an annual Open Meet at the Ponds Forge International Pool in Sheffield.

Health Services in Retford

Retford is served by the Doncaster and Bassetlaw Teaching Hospitals NHS Foundation Trust, offering a range of healthcare services. The town features several GP centres, dental services, a hospital, and a hospice.

East Retford Cottage Hospital

The East Retford Cottage Hospital, also known as the East Retford Dispensary, was a former hospital located on Thrumpton Lane. Between 1939 and 1941, Eaton Hall served as a maternity hospital for soldiers' wives displaced by bombing during World War II.

Retford Hospital and Primary Care Centre

Retford and District Hospital was built in 1922, initially comprising two wards, a private patients’ wing, an operating theatre, casualty service, and X-ray facilities. It was expanded in the late 1960s and early 1970s with the addition of two more wards for long-stay elderly patients. The operating theatre closed in 1980, and inpatient services were transferred to Bassetlaw Hospital in the late 1980s. The site now houses outpatient and community services, including physiotherapy, speech therapy, audiology, and child health services, and serves as the headquarters for Bassetlaw PCT. Adjacent to the hospital, the Retford Primary Care Centre, built in 2007, incorporates three GP practices, rehabilitation and physiotherapy departments, community nursing services, and an on-site pharmacy. Bassetlaw Hospice, constructed in 1994, is also located on the hospital site.

World War I Medical Services

During the First World War, Retford hosted two Red Cross Hospitals for wounded servicemen: one at Babworth Hall and the Sherwood Rangers Headquarters hospital at 12 Lime Tree Avenue.

Media in Retford

Retford is served by a range of local media outlets, providing news and information to the community.

Retford Cemetery: A Victorian Legacy

Retford Cemetery, a Victorian-era burial ground, saw its first interment in 1854, shortly after its construction. Prior to this, maps from 1835 indicate the area was agricultural land. Spanning approximately 25 acres, the cemetery is situated between Babworth Road and North Road, bordered by the Chesterfield Canal, which divides the site into two sections. It has two entrances: the original on North Road and another on Babworth Road, adjacent to St Joseph's Church. The cemetery is maintained by Bassetlaw District Council.

The cemetery was opened in stages. The oldest section, dating from 1854, cost £1,800 to establish and featured two mortuary chapels designed by Arthur Wilson (one Church of England and one Nonconformist), linked by a porch. These chapels were demolished in the 1970s. A cemetery lodge, designed by James Fowler, still exists and is now a private residence. Within the 1854 section, there is a separate Catholic cemetery. In the 1890s, the cemetery was extended across the canal, with a bridge connecting the two parts. In the 1950s, the Catholic church donated land for a further extension to the 1890 cemetery. This land had originally been donated by Major Milner in 1922 for the burial of Catholics. Part of this donated land was used for a Catholic church, school, and hall, with the remainder allocated for the general cemetery, including provision for a new separate Catholic cemetery.

Retford Cemetery serves as the final resting place for 14 Commonwealth war graves from the First World War and 16 from the Second World War, as well as one Polish soldier.

Education in Retford

Retford offers a comprehensive range of educational institutions, from primary to secondary levels, as well as post-16 facilities.

Primary Schools

The town is served by several primary schools, including St Swithun's CE Primary Academy, St Josephs Catholic Primary School, Bracken Lane Academy, Thrumpton Primary Academy, Carr Hill Primary School, and Ordsall Primary School.

Senior Schools

Secondary education is provided by The Elizabethan Academy and Retford Oaks Academy. St. Giles also serves the senior school population. As part of a significant overhaul of secondary education in the Bassetlaw area, schools have relocated to new facilities built as part of the Transform Schools initiative. Retford hosts a Post-16 centre, formerly part of Ordsall Hall School, which aims to consolidate Sixth Form students and offer courses through North Nottinghamshire College. Since spring 2018, A-Level students have returned to their respective secondary schools, with the Post-16 centre now focusing on vocational and technical courses, as well as higher education.

Historic Educational Institutions

King Edward VI Grammar School, with its motto 'Ex Pulvere Palma' (From the dust, a palm), opened in August 1857. Designed by the renowned Victorian architect Decimus Burton, the school's origins trace back to Thomas Gunthorpe of Babworth in 1519, with references to an even earlier school in the town. Refounded around 1551 during the reign of King Edward VI, the school accepted boarders from the 17th century until 1938.

During the Second World War, Retford became a refuge for over 6,000 evacuee children, including boys from Great Yarmouth Grammar School who were educated at King Edward VI Grammar School between 1940 and 1944. The school eventually merged into the Retford Oaks Academy and moved to new premises on the outskirts of town. The original Grade II listed buildings on London Road still stand. Notably, the school donated the sledge, pulled by a pony named Michael, used in Robert Falcon Scott's expedition to the South Pole. Scott had appealed to schoolboys across Britain for financial support, and the boys of Retford Grammar School contributed three guineas, with the Head Master adding funds to cover the cost of one sledge. Scott acknowledged this generous donation, personally adding a postscript: "Will you please give my hearty thanks to the boys for their generous subscription and good wishes. A sledge will be called ‘Retford.’—R.S."

Retford County High School for Girls originated from a meeting held at the White Hart Hotel in Retford to discuss the establishment of a public high school for girls in the district. William Oakden, manager of the Westminster Bank, was a key instigator, aiming to provide higher education opportunities for his daughters. The school eventually found a site on the corner of Pelham Road and Queen Street, adjacent to the canal. In the 1950s to 1970s, it educated approximately 400 girls. In 1979, secondary school reorganisation led to the abolition of the 11+ and the admission of boys. This resulted in the formation of a comprehensive school named 'The Elizabethan High School' under head teacher Mrs Coxon-Butler. The former Hallcroft Girls' secondary modern school became the new school's Lower Site, and the Retford Girls' High School became its Upper Site. The original Pelham Road/Queen Street site was demolished to make way for a housing estate after the school relocated to new buildings in Hallcroft and was renamed The Elizabethan Academy.

Twinning

Retford is twinned with the town of Paderborn in Germany, fostering cultural exchange and collaboration between the two communities.

Notable People

Retford has been the birthplace or home of several notable individuals across various fields, contributing to the town's rich cultural tapestry.

Further Reading

For those interested in delving deeper into the history of Retford, a number of valuable resources are available:

• 'In the Shadow of the Workhouse' by Maurice Caplan (1984)
• 'The Book of Retford' by James Joffey (1991)
• 'The Early Days of Retford Workhouse' by Dorinda Clark (1969)
• ‘The Origins of East Retford’ by M W Bishop (1978)
• 'English small town life. Retford 1520-1642' by David Marcombe (1993)
• ‘1246 and all that! A look at Retford’s historic charters’ by M Dolby (1997)
• 'The Lay Subsidy of 1334' by R. E. Glasscock (1975)
• 'A history of Retford. The growth of a Nottinghamshire borough' by A Jackson (1971)
• 'Retford Through Time' by Nicola Davison Reed (2012)
• 'A History of East Retford Church' by Arthur A Kidson (1905)

These works offer comprehensive insights into the multifaceted history of Retford, from its etymological roots to its economic development and social evolution.

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