19/08/2024
For many travellers venturing into the heart of Thailand, Hua Lamphong, officially known as Bangkok Railway Station, has long been the quintessential starting point for memorable train journeys. More than just a transport hub, this grand old station embodies a slice of Thai history and offers a vibrant, albeit changing, experience for those exploring the Kingdom by rail. While its role has evolved, Hua Lamphong remains a crucial artery in Bangkok’s vast transport network, deeply connected and easily accessible, making it a key stop for anyone looking to traverse the country or simply navigate the bustling capital.
Stepping into Hua Lamphong is like taking a delightful step back in time. The station, over 110 years old, is an impressive sight with its magnificent half-dome roof and expansive, welcoming hall. Designed by the Italian architect Mario Tamagno in a distinctive Neo-Renaissance style with subtle Thai influences, it opened its doors in 1916. For decades, it served as Bangkok's primary railway station, a bustling nexus for long-distance trains heading north, north-east, and south, even connecting to Malaysia. Although the landscape of Thai rail travel has shifted, with long-distance services now primarily departing from the modern Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal (also known as Bang Sue Grand Station) since early 2021, Hua Lamphong continues to operate, focusing on local 'Ordinary' services to destinations such as Pattaya and Aranyaprathet. This blend of historical charm and ongoing local utility makes it a fascinating point of interest in its own right.
Despite its age, Hua Lamphong is remarkably well-equipped to handle the needs of modern travellers. The spacious main hall provides a welcome respite from the city's ceaseless energy, offering ample room to wait comfortably for your train. Electronic display boards, conveniently located above the ticket counters and on each of the 12 platforms, provide up-to-date information on train departures, arrivals, and any potential delays, all displayed clearly in both Thai and English. Furthermore, loudspeaker announcements ensure you won't miss your train, even if you're engrossed in a book or simply people-watching.
One of the most significant improvements for international visitors has been the introduction of a dedicated tourist section for ticket booking. Previously, foreign travellers would navigate one of the 26 general ticket counters, which, while manageable, could sometimes be a bit of a puzzle. The new tourist office streamlines the process significantly, making it even easier to secure your passage. Should this office be closed, don't fret; other booths are still available. For longer journeys, particularly those requiring a sleeper berth, it's highly advisable to book your tickets at least a week in advance, especially during Thailand's high season (November to March). Remember to bring your passport, as it's a mandatory requirement for booking officers. For those who prefer the convenience of planning ahead, tickets can also be booked online or through a travel agent, with the option to pick them up directly at Hua Lamphong – though be mindful of potential agency fees.
Food and Drink Options
Waiting for a train can build up an appetite, and Hua Lamphong has you covered. Inside the station, you'll find a variety of options, from quick snacks to more substantial meals. Black Canyon Coffee is a popular choice for a sandwich and a hot drink, perfect for grabbing a quick bite before boarding. A shopping mart downstairs, as you enter the main hall, is ideal for stocking up on water and other essentials for your journey. For those who enjoy a bit of local flavour, several cheap Thai restaurants are located just across the road from the main entrance. These establishments are renowned for their friendly service, excellent value, and authentic Thai cuisine. It's worth noting that while alcoholic drinks are no longer sold on Thai trains, local shops, including the 7-Eleven just outside the station, adhere to specific sale hours: 12:00 to 14:00 and then from 17:00 to 24:00. This is a crucial detail for anyone wishing to purchase a beverage for their journey.
Station Facilities at a Glance:
- Left Luggage Office: Conveniently located at the front entrance, to your left as you enter. Perfect for storing bags while you explore the area.
- Toilets: Clean facilities are available to the right of the ticket counters, at the far end of the station from the main entrance.
- Food Stalls & Restaurants: Ground floor features food stalls, KFC, Dunkin Donuts, and a food hall with inexpensive Thai food. Black Canyon Coffee is on the first floor.
- Shopping: A small bookshop and a supermarket are available within the station.
- Freight & Parcels Office: Located to the left of the train platforms, this office allows you to send packages to most train stations across Thailand by weight.
Getting To and From Hua Lamphong: Your Transport Options
Hua Lamphong's strategic location makes it highly accessible from various parts of Bangkok. The best and often most efficient way to reach the station, especially during rush hour, is by utilising Bangkok's excellent public transport network.
MRT (Underground) and BTS (Skytrain)
Hua Lamphong MRT station is directly connected to the railway station, with Exit 2 leading you right to a side entrance. The MRT Blue Line runs through the city, connecting Hua Lamphong to major areas like Silom and Sukhumvit, and extends all the way up to Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal. From the MRT Blue Line, you can easily interchange with the BTS Skytrain network at various points, including Silom, Sukhumvit, and Chatuchak Park. There's also a convenient interchange at Phetchaburi MRT station for the Airport Rail Link, providing a seamless connection to Suvarnabhumi Airport, Bangkok's main international airport. This integrated system allows you to avoid Bangkok's notorious traffic congestion, particularly appealing if you're staying near the Silom or Sukhumvit areas.
Taxis and Tuk-Tuks
For those travelling to or from areas not directly served by the MRT or BTS, such as the popular backpacker hub of Khao San Road, taxis and tuk-tuks are readily available at the front of the railway station. When taking a taxi, always ensure the driver uses the meter. If they don't activate it immediately after pulling away from the station, politely ask them to. This ensures a fair fare and avoids potential overcharging. For tuk-tuks, a quintessentially Thai experience, remember to negotiate the price before you start your journey. While they might be more expensive than a metered taxi for the same distance, tuk-tuks can often weave through congested traffic much quicker, making them a good option when roads are busy.
Chao Phraya Express Boat
An alternative, and often scenic, route to Hua Lamphong from areas near the Chao Phraya River, such as Khao San Road (Phra Athit Pier), involves taking the Chao Phraya Express Boat. You would alight at the Marine Department Pier (Pier Number 4), which is approximately a 16-minute walk to Hua Lamphong Station. This is a very inexpensive option, offering a unique perspective of the city, but be prepared for some potentially challenging road crossings between the pier and the station.
Comparison of Transport Options to/from Hua Lamphong
| Transport Type | Pros | Cons | Approx. Cost (THB) | Estimated Time (Khao San Rd to Hua Lamphong) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| MRT (Subway) | Fast, air-conditioned, avoids traffic, cheap, direct station access. | Limited direct coverage for some areas (e.g., Khao San Rd). | 16-42 (single journey) | N/A (requires connecting transport) |
| BTS (Skytrain) | Fast, elevated views, air-conditioned, avoids traffic. | Requires MRT interchange for Hua Lamphong, limited direct coverage. | 16-62 (single journey) | N/A (requires connecting transport) |
| Taxi (Metered) | Door-to-door convenience, comfortable, good for luggage. | Prone to traffic delays, potential for non-metered fares if not careful. | 60-150+ (depending on distance/traffic) | 20-40 minutes (variable) |
| Tuk-Tuk | Exciting experience, can navigate traffic quickly, good for short distances. | No meter (negotiate fare), open-air (less comfortable in heat/rain), price can be higher than taxi. | 60-100+ (negotiated) | 15-30 minutes (variable) |
| Chao Phraya Express Boat | Scenic, very cheap, avoids road traffic. | Requires walking from pier to station (approx. 16 mins), not door-to-door. | <20 (one-way) | 30-45 minutes (including walk) |
Connecting to Key Bangkok Destinations
From Hua Lamphong, reaching other significant Bangkok landmarks is straightforward:
- Siam & National Stadium: To reach the BTS lines serving popular shopping and entertainment districts like Siam and National Stadium, you'll need to take a short taxi or tuk-tuk ride from Hua Lamphong Station to either the National Stadium BTS Station or Siam BTS Station. This short hop typically costs around 60-80 THB, though expect to pay more during peak hours. From there, the BTS network offers rapid connections across the city.
- Khao San Road: As mentioned, Khao San Road is not on the MRT or BTS network. Your best bets are a taxi or tuk-tuk directly from Hua Lamphong. Alternatively, for a more adventurous and budget-friendly option, consider the Chao Phraya Express Boat to Phra Athit Pier, followed by a walk.
Beyond the Station: Exploring the Local Area
If you find yourself with some time before your train departs, Hua Lamphong's location on the edge of Bangkok's vibrant Chinatown (Yaowarat) and close to the Chao Phraya River means there's plenty to see and do within a short walk. Consider depositing your bags at the Left Luggage Office and embarking on a brief exploration:
- Visit Wat Traimit (The Temple of the Golden Buddha): Just a 7-minute (550-metre) walk from the station, this temple houses the breathtaking Phra Phuttha Maha Suwana Patimakon – a solid gold Buddha statue weighing an astonishing 5,500 kilograms, valued at over $250 million. Its incredible history, having been hidden under a clay casing for centuries, makes it a truly fascinating sight.
- Super Cheap River Cruise on the Chao Phraya Express Boat: A 16-minute (1.2-kilometre) walk to Pier Number 4 (The Marine Department Pier) allows you to hop on a Chao Phraya Express Boat. For a mere 8 to 40 THB, you can enjoy one of the cheapest and most scenic river cruises in the world, travelling along the length of Bangkok's main river. Alight at Pier Number 8 (Tha Tien Pier) for easy access to the Grand Palace, Wat Pho, and a connecting ferry to Wat Arun.
- Going Shopping at Sampeng Lane Market: Approximately a 16-minute (1.3-kilometre) walk from the station, Sampeng Lane is one of Chinatown's largest and most exciting markets. This long, narrow alley offers an intense sensory experience, packed with vendors selling everything imaginable, from textiles to street food. It's an absolute must-do for many travellers seeking an authentic local market vibe.
- See the Exhibits at the Thai Railway Museum: For a quick and convenient cultural fix, a small railway museum is located right inside the station building, to the left of the grand entrance. It's free to enter and offers a glimpse into Thailand's railway history, taking no more than 15 minutes for a thorough look.
The Future of Hua Lamphong
The role of Hua Lamphong has been a topic of much discussion. Initially, there were plans to close the station entirely in 2021, transforming it into a museum after 105 years of service, with all operations moving to the new Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal. However, following significant opposition, the State Railways of Thailand announced in December 2021 that a limited number of long and short-distance train services would continue to operate from Hua Lamphong, ensuring its continued, albeit modified, functionality alongside the new grand station. This means that while long-haul journeys now largely originate from Krung Thep Aphiwat, Hua Lamphong retains its charm and utility for specific local routes, preserving its historical significance for travellers and locals alike.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Hua Lamphong still the main train station in Bangkok?
No, as of early 2021, Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal (also known as Bang Sue Grand Station) has taken over as Bangkok's main station for all long-distance train services. Hua Lamphong now primarily handles 'Ordinary' local services to destinations such as Pattaya and Aranyaprathet.
Can you transport bicycles on trains from Hua Lamphong Station?
Yes, you can transport bicycles on 'Ordinary' trains departing from Hua Lamphong, provided the train has a dedicated Freight Carriage. Unlike other cargo, you are typically required to load and unload your bicycle yourself, meaning you must travel on the same train. You'll need to purchase a separate ticket for your bicycle from the Freight & Parcel Office at the station after you've secured your own passenger ticket.
What's the best way to get to Hua Lamphong Station?
The most efficient way to get to Hua Lamphong is by taking the MRT (underground train) directly to Hua Lamphong MRT station. This avoids Bangkok's traffic congestion. If you're coming from an area not served by MRT, you can use the BTS (Skytrain) and interchange to the MRT Blue Line, or take a taxi or tuk-tuk. For those near the river, the Chao Phraya Express Boat offers a scenic, albeit longer, option.
While modern air travel offers speed and sometimes competitive pricing, embarking on a train journey from Hua Lamphong offers a unique and enriching experience. The rhythmic clickety-clack of the tracks, the ever-changing scenery outside your window, and the simple charm of a journey through the Thai landscape provide a memorable adventure that flying simply cannot replicate. For many, it's an essential part of the Thai travel experience, a chance to slow down and truly absorb the country's beauty. Don't miss the opportunity to experience the scenic route and the enduring legacy of Hua Lamphong station.
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