13/05/2021
Embarking on the journey from Colombo to Arugam Bay is an experience that truly encapsulates the essence of Sri Lanka. This route takes you on a captivating voyage from the bustling West Coast to the serene East, traversing a rich tapestry of the island's diverse offerings. You'll witness firsthand the remarkable transformations in flora and fauna, landscapes, the warmth of its people, and their varied faiths and livelihoods. Consider this trip a comprehensive, self-guided immersion into the heart of Sri Lanka, offering insights that many travellers spend weeks trying to uncover.
Over the years, we've refined this eastward expedition, gathering invaluable details on optimal travel methods, must-visit stops for exploration, and the most advantageous routes. This guide, brought to you by the Spice Trail, is your definitive resource for making the most of your journey to the East.
How Long Does the Drive Really Take?
The duration of your journey is, in our experience, a delightful variable. It's influenced by your inclination for spontaneous roadside market stops, your adventurous spirit for sampling street food, your appreciation for picturesque views, and, of course, your bladder's capacity for enduring the journey.
When choosing to drive, you have three primary routes to consider:
1. The Southern Expressway (E01 + A2): 7-8 Hours
This is our preferred route for travellers with a clear objective. The Southern Expressway (E01) provides a smooth and remarkably swift passage from Katunayake Airport or Colombo, extending all the way to Mattala. From there, you can seamlessly transition to the coastal road (A2), allowing for charming detours through quaint towns before reaching Arugam Bay. This option is ideal for those who want to maximise their time at their destination.
2. The Coastal Road (A2): 9-11 Hours
For the true explorer, the all-encompassing coastal route (A2) offers a more leisurely and immersive experience. This journey is a visual feast, unfolding with breathtaking ocean vistas, picturesque fishing villages, vibrant local markets, and an abundance of roadside snack vendors and eateries. It's a route brimming with opportunities to discover hidden beaches, delve into historical sites, and savour authentic local cuisine. The route meanders through scenic countryside and charming small towns, offering an authentic glimpse into rural Sri Lankan life and ample chances for people-watching. A strategic pro-tip: consider breaking this journey into two days. An overnight stay on the South Coast, a region known for its lively atmosphere, is highly recommended. If you're travelling around April or October, you might even catch the surf season switching between the South and East Coasts. Our own Spice Trail Ahangama villa, with its tranquil rooms and inviting pool, is the perfect sanctuary to rest and rejuvenate during your travels.
3. The Inland Wildlife Route (A4 + A18 + A2): 10-12 Hours
This route is tailor-made for the wildlife enthusiast. Though longer, it offers unparalleled access to three significant national parks: Udawalawe, Lunugamvehera, and Yala. These parks are renowned for their abundant wildlife, including many species endemic to Sri Lanka. If your primary interest is spotting elephants, peacocks, wild boar, deer, and the elusive leopard, this route is your best bet. Prepare for an immersive wilderness experience.
All these routes converge eastward, leading you towards Pottuvil, the essential gateway town to our surf village, Ulla, more famously known as Arugam Bay.
Alternatives to Driving: Beyond the Road
Sri Lanka's public transport system is both extensive and incredibly affordable, offering excellent alternatives to private vehicles.
By Train and Bus:
A particularly scenic option is to take the train from Colombo to Ella. This journey offers panoramic views of lush tea plantations, rolling hills, and cascading waterfalls. From Ella, you can easily connect to a bus or a tuk-tuk (three-wheeler taxi) for the final leg to Arugam Bay. For a more direct approach, consider the convenient overnight express bus service from Colombo. This service will transport you directly to the Pottuvil bus stop, where a fleet of tuk-tuks will be waiting to whisk you away to your final destination.
By Air:
For those seeking a more luxurious and time-efficient option, consider flying with Cinnamon Airlines from Colombo to Batticaloa Airport. From Batticaloa, it's a short drive to Arugam Bay. The aerial perspective offers a unique advantage, allowing you to witness Sri Lanka's breathtaking scenery from above, including dramatic mountain ranges, dense jungles, and even historical shipwrecks dotting the eastern coastline. It's an unforgettable way to see the island.
Essential Stops and Unforgettable Experiences
Regardless of the route you choose, the journey from Colombo to Arugam Bay is punctuated with numerous opportunities for exploration and discovery.
Culinary Delights:
Along the driving routes, particularly near Lunugamvehera, Tissamaharama, and Buttala, you'll find fantastic roadside eateries serving Sri Lanka's beloved lunch – rice and curry, followed by curd and treacle for dessert. Some establishments offer all-you-can-eat buffets, while others provide a hearty plate of rice with a variety of flavourful curries featuring vegetables, fish, or chicken cooked in creamy coconut milk, often accompanied by fried chillies or crisp papadums. Be sure to seek out places offering curd and treacle; this region is renowned for producing the island's finest curd, a dairy product akin to Greek yogurt, deliciously sweetened with kitul palm syrup. If you opt for the coastal route, a stop at our own LBK eatery and Kaffi coffeehouse is a must for a delightful culinary experience, offering everything from comforting ramen to exquisite cakes and the best coffee on the South Coast to fuel your onward journey.
Historical and Spiritual Sites:
For those with an interest in history, legends, and mythology, the ancient pilgrim town of Kataragama is a highly recommended stop. Familiarising yourself with the rich stories associated with this sacred town will provide context for the spiritual significance that draws people from diverse faiths. The routes to Arugam Bay are also generously dotted with ancient ruins and archaeological sites, testaments to Sri Lanka's long and storied history. Sites like Muhudu Maha Viharaya, Lahugala Kotawehera, and Magul Mahaviharaya are easily accessible roadside attractions, each holding captivating tales from the past. Look out for the official signs indicating archaeologically protected sites. When exploring these areas, exercise caution and respect. While many sites are not adequately fenced or protected, they represent invaluable links to history. Avoid sitting, stepping on, moving, or marking any structures, as they may be crucial pieces in a historical narrative that the local archaeology department is still meticulously reconstructing.
Natural Wonders: Lakes and National Parks
The lakes and national parks situated along these routes are always worth a visit. Many of the water bodies are postcard-perfect and frequently host herds of birds and elephants seeking sustenance or a cooling respite. Consider pausing near the Tissamaharama or Lahugala tanks, both conveniently located along the route. However, it's crucial to remember that these water bodies can be home to crocodiles, so refrain from swimming or entering them. If you plan to visit Yala, Lunugamvehera, or Udawalawe National Parks, please be aware that separate entrance fees and permits are required. Adhering to all regulations and guidelines set forth by the authorities is paramount for the preservation of the natural environment and its inhabitants.
Practicalities: Bathroom Breaks and Packing Essentials
Let's be realistic: this is a considerable journey, even when taking the most direct route. Incorporating a couple of well-timed bathroom breaks will undoubtedly be appreciated by your body.
Restroom Facilities:
If you are travelling via the Expressway, the Canowin Arcade rest stops offer clean and reasonably priced restroom facilities. Along any of the routes, stopping at supermarkets belonging to the Keells or Cargill's chains will provide access to their clean bathrooms free of charge. Furthermore, impromptu "jungle pee stops" are generally acceptable in Sri Lanka, provided you maintain a discreet distance from any pedestrian pathways and venture only a short distance into the foliage. Be mindful of insects and other creatures in these natural settings.
Hydration and Comfort:
Packing snacks is always a wise decision, and carrying drinking water is absolutely essential. When selecting bottled water, we strongly encourage you to minimise the use of single-use plastic bottles, as plastic pollution is a significant issue in Sri Lanka. Instead, opt for a reusable water bottle. Many roadside restaurants equipped with stoves are happy to refill your bottle with boiled or filtered water for a small fee.
King coconuts are highly recommended for superior hydration. Readily available throughout the island, they are affordable, delicious, and packed with electrolytes, ensuring you stay cool and hydrated even in the most intense tropical heat.
If you are travelling by taxi or an air-conditioned bus, be prepared for prolonged exposure to cool air conditioning, even amidst the sweltering heat outside. Most taxis, vans, and buses maintain surprisingly low internal temperatures, which can feel quite chilly. It's advisable to pack layers of clothing. This will allow you to adjust your attire as needed, adding layers for warmth inside and removing them when you venture out into the high temperatures, particularly during March and April.
Whether you are a couple seeking to create cherished memories in a tropical paradise or a family eager for bonding experiences, this Spice Trail guide will ensure your journey to Arugam Bay is as enriching and memorable as the destination itself. We look forward to welcoming you to the Spice Trail.
See you in the East!
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