05/11/2022
When considering a trip to Morocco, particularly to its vibrant cities like Casablanca or Marrakech, the thought of navigating local transport often brings up a mix of excitement and apprehension. Moroccan taxis, much like their counterparts in many bustling global hubs, carry a certain reputation. Stories of overcharging and challenging encounters sometimes precede them, painting a picture that might deter the uninitiated. However, despite these anecdotes, which often represent a minority of experiences, the overall interaction with Moroccan taxis can be surprisingly positive and, crucially, offer excellent value for money. But does this value translate into significant earnings for the drivers themselves? In other words, do Moroccan taxi drivers truly earn 'bezaf' (meaning 'a lot' or 'much' in Moroccan Arabic)? Let's delve into the intricate world of Moroccan taxis to uncover the answers and equip you with everything you need for a smooth ride.
For the price of a journey that takes you across half of Casablanca, you would barely cover a fraction of the distance in Paris. This stark contrast highlights the affordability, at least in major cities like Casablanca. Yet, the system can appear confusing to outsiders. This guide aims to demystify Moroccan taxis, offering insights into their operations, fare structures, and cultural nuances, ensuring your journey is as comfortable and cost-effective as possible.
- Small vs. Large Taxis: The Essential Distinction
- Navigating Your Journey: Beyond GPS
- Understanding Moroccan Taxi Fares
- The Unique Experience of Sharing a Taxi
- Practical Tips for Hailing Your Ride
- Carrying Your Load: What to Expect with Baggage
- Navigating Potential Scams and Challenges
- Booking a Taxi: Modern Solutions and Traditional Methods
- Frequently Asked Questions About Moroccan Taxis
Small vs. Large Taxis: The Essential Distinction
The first step to mastering Moroccan taxi travel is understanding the fundamental difference between the two main types: the Petit Taxi (small taxi) and the Grand Taxi (large taxi). Each serves a distinct purpose and adheres to different rules.
Petit Taxis: City Explorers
Petit taxis are designed for intra-city journeys only. You can easily identify them by their distinct colour, which varies from city to city. For instance, they are red in Casablanca and Agadir, blue in Rabat or Asilah, turquoise blue in Tangier, and a distinctive yellow ochre in Marrakech. They also bear a 'Petit Taxi / (taxi sahir)' plate on their roof. These taxis are typically smaller vehicles, often accommodating up to three passengers (one in the front, two in the back), though in smaller towns, they might sometimes take four.
Grand Taxis: Inter-City Connectors
Grand taxis, on the other hand, are strictly for inter-city travel or journeys to destinations far outside city limits, such as airports that are a significant distance from the urban centre. For example, Casablanca's airport requires a grand taxi due to its location, whereas Marrakech's airport is close enough for a petit taxi. Traditionally, many grand taxis were older Mercedes creamy-white models, but newer ones are white with a band of alternating small green squares. These larger vehicles can typically carry between five and seven passengers.
Comparing Petit and Grand Taxis
| Feature | Petit Taxi | Grand Taxi |
|---|---|---|
| Purpose | In-city journeys | Inter-city or far out-of-city journeys |
| Identification | City-specific colour (e.g., red in Casablanca), 'Petit Taxi' sign | White with green checkered band (newer), or old Mercedes models with coloured tape |
| Payment | Metered (compulsory in large cities) | Fixed prices (negotiable), based on mileage |
| Passengers | Up to 3 (rarely 4 in small towns) | 5-7, depending on vehicle |
| Luggage | Often on roof rack, small items inside | In boot |
| Hailing | Can be hailed anywhere ('marauding') | Often wait at designated stands |
Unlike many Western countries, Moroccan taxis do not typically use GPS. Drivers are not required to know every street, only major landmarks and districts. This means effective communication is key to reaching your destination efficiently.
The Art of Triangulation
Moroccan taxis often operate on a system of 'triangulation'. Instead of a precise address, you'll need to provide a landmark: a monument, a well-known district, a main thoroughfare, or a specific crossroads. If you're going to an unfamiliar place, it's always wise to ask your host or contact for the nearest significant landmark to guide the taxi driver.
Communication and Courtesy
You can hail a taxi and indicate a general direction. Once inside, you can provide more detailed explanations. If you are the first passenger, this poses no issue. However, if the taxi already has other passengers, your destination should not significantly divert the taxi from its existing route, especially if you are sharing a ride.
Understanding Moroccan Taxi Fares
One of the most common sources of confusion for visitors is the fare system. While petit taxis are metered, grand taxis operate on fixed, though negotiable, rates. Understanding how these work can save you both money and frustration.
The Inner Workings of the Meter
For petit taxis, the price includes a pick-up charge and a per-kilometre rate (or per-minute for waiting time). Bulky parcels may incur additional charges. It's crucial to note that night fares, typically after 9 pm or 10 pm depending on the season, are doubled, including the minimum pick-up charge.
A unique aspect of Moroccan taxi meters is their ability to run multiple fares simultaneously. If several people get into a taxi, the driver might start a new meter for each new passenger. In the top left-hand corner of the meter, you'll see a number identifying 'your meter', ensuring each passenger pays their exact due. Similarly, if you start a journey together but get off separately, you might effectively pay two pick-up charges, as the meter continues to run for the remaining passenger.
Finding Your Meter
The meter is usually located at the front, at the very bottom, below the radio. However, in recent years, some taxis have introduced meters displayed conveniently in the rear-view mirror. While this is a significant investment for drivers (around 4,000 dirhams), it's highly practical for passengers, allowing them to easily monitor the fare from any seat.
Moroccan Taxi Fares: A Detailed Breakdown
The following table outlines typical taxi fares in major Moroccan cities (prices are generally consistent across them):
| Charge Type | Amount (in Dirhams) | Details |
|---|---|---|
| Pick-up Charge | 2.00 | Initial charge upon starting the meter. |
| 'Drop' (Unit Increase) | 0.20 | Meter increases by this amount. |
| Distance for 'Drop' | 80 metres | The distance covered for each 0.20 DH increase. |
| Duration for 'Drop' | 1 minute | The waiting time for each 0.20 DH increase. |
| Small Parcels (10-50 kg) | 0.40 | Additional charge per parcel. |
| Large Parcels (over 50 kg) | 1.00 | Additional charge per parcel. |
| Children's Cars & Bicycles | 0.60 | Additional charge. |
| Minimum Fare | 7.50 | The lowest possible fare for a journey. |
| Night Differential | +50% | Fare increases by 50% during night hours. |
| Winter Night Schedule | 20:00 – 06:00 (Oct 1 - Apr 30) | Applicable hours for night differential. |
| Summer Night Schedule | 21:00 – 05:00 (May 1 - Sep 30) | Applicable hours for night differential. |
Do Moroccan Taxi Drivers Really Earn 'Bezaf'?
Despite the seemingly low fares from a tourist's perspective, the answer to whether Moroccan taxi drivers earn 'bezaf' is, in reality, no. The basic minimum fare of around 7 to 8 dirhams is quite low. While the cost of living in Morocco is generally lower than in many Western countries, it's essential to consider the drivers' overheads. Petrol, for instance, is imported, driving up operational costs. Historically, vehicles like the Peugeot or Fiat for petit taxis and the robust Mercedes for grand taxis were imported, adding to the initial investment. Although dedicated cars are now increasingly produced locally, the financial burden on drivers remains significant.
Because taxi fares are relatively inexpensive, many tourists, perhaps out of generosity or a misunderstanding of local economics, have been willing to pay exorbitant prices or spontaneously give large tips. This has unfortunately led to some unscrupulous drivers, particularly in tourist hotspots like Marrakech or at major transport hubs like Casa-Voyageurs station, attempting to exploit foreigners. They might refuse to use the meter and quote prices in euros (e.g., 10 dirhams becomes 10 euros). Always remember: the meter is compulsory, and you should always insist on its use.
Payment Protocols: Cash is King
Moroccan taxis are primarily cash-based. It's crucial to have sufficient change, ideally small notes like 20 dirhams. If you pay with a large note (over 50 dirhams), the driver may need to find change from a nearby shop, which can be inconvenient for everyone, especially other passengers. Sometimes, drivers might even ask other passengers if they have the necessary change, deducting it from their fare. Always pay in dirhams; while euros might be accepted in tourist areas, the exchange rate offered by drivers will be highly unfavourable.
The Art of the Tip: "Chi Bakchich?"
Tipping, or 'bakchich', in Moroccan taxis is flexible and largely dependent on the driver's service. For short journeys where the meter falls below the minimum fare (e.g., 7.50 dirhams in Casablanca), some drivers might automatically round up the fare by 50 centimes if you don't offer exact change. My personal approach is to reward good service: if the driver is pleasant and professional, I'll happily let them keep the 50 centimes or round up to the nearest 10 dirhams. Conversely, if the experience is unpleasant, I will insist on exact change. During Ramadan, you might find drivers are particularly honest and give exact change. For longer fares, a tip of one to three dirhams, or even five to ten for excellent service or if you've had bulky luggage, is common. It's worth remembering that many Moroccans, who rely on taxis for daily commutes due to public transport issues, may not be able to afford tips.
Receipts: A Rare Request
Asking for a receipt from a Moroccan taxi driver is a habit quickly lost in a country where informality is common. While technically, drivers are obligated to provide a voucher if requested, you would need to supply the voucher from a booklet obtained from the Wilaya or commune yourself – a practice virtually no one follows. For business accounting, the small sums involved in taxi fares are typically handled through deposit slips.
The Unique Experience of Sharing a Taxi
One of the most distinctive features of Moroccan taxi culture is the practice of 'marauding' or sharing rides. While theoretically prohibited for petit taxis to pick up customers without being at a designated stand, this is a widespread and accepted practice. A taxi will often gradually fill up with passengers heading in the same general direction.
Initially, this might feel strange to visitors accustomed to private taxi rides. However, the system is well-established and generally efficient, making it easier to find a taxi quickly. Grand taxis, however, typically wait at their stands until they are full before departing, unless you choose to pay for multiple seats to secure a more comfortable, private journey.
Maximum Passenger Capacity
Petit taxis are generally not allowed to carry more than three passengers (one in the front, two in the back). In smaller towns, however, drivers might occasionally take a group of four. For grand taxis, the capacity varies with the vehicle, typically between five and seven people.
The Unwritten Rules of Priority
When sharing a taxi, the route choice depends on the order in which passengers enter the vehicle. If a second passenger's destination requires a slight diversion from the first passenger's route, the first passenger's permission should ideally be sought. In practice, this system usually works well. However, be wary if a driver proposes a significant diversion upon your entry, especially if you are unfamiliar with the city, as this could be an attempt to take you on a longer route. In such cases, it's advisable to alight.
Gender Considerations
Some taxi drivers, particularly if you are a woman and sit in the back, may only pick up other female passengers. This is not a universal rule but reflects a cultural sensitivity regarding personal space and interaction between unknown men and women.
Practical Tips for Hailing Your Ride
Finding an empty taxi ready to go anywhere can sometimes be challenging due to the 'marauding' system. Taxi ranks are largely unused by petit taxis, making it essential to position yourself correctly on the street.
Positioning for Success
The easiest way to hail a taxi efficiently is to determine your direction of travel using a GPS app like HereWeGo or Waze (both are effective in Morocco). Ensure you are on the 'right side' of the street for taxis heading in your desired direction. If you don't have GPS or prefer to conserve data, don't hesitate to ask passers-by or even drivers who decline your ride for guidance on where to stand.
Communicating Your Intentions
To avoid taxis stopping unnecessarily, you can use hand signals. Indicate your general direction or the number of people in your party. This is particularly useful if someone is waiting with you but not taking the taxi; a driver with only one empty seat might not stop if they perceive two of you.
Queuing in Morocco can be a bit of a free-for-all. People often attempt to jump ahead. If this happens, you have a few options: try to move slightly ahead yourself with a stern look, wave at the taxi from a distance and move into the street to make yourself prominent (drivers sometimes prefer foreign customers due to potential tips), or simply move away from busy pedestrian crossings, where you might find a taxi just as quickly.
Carrying Your Load: What to Expect with Baggage
Luggage handling varies between petit and grand taxis.
Petit taxis generally do not use their boot for luggage, as it often contains various items or requires the driver to alight to open it. Instead, they typically have a roof rack with straps, capable of transporting surprisingly large items, including furniture! If you prefer not to put your bags on the roof, you'll likely need to keep them on your lap; drivers are usually accommodating and won't refuse a customer due to bulky items.
Grand taxis, being larger vehicles, readily accommodate luggage in their boot.
While most Moroccan taxi experiences are positive, being aware of potential issues can help you avoid them.
The Meter Manipulation
Even if the meter is running, drivers might try to apply the night fare during the day. This can be spotted if the fare increases by 30 centimes per 'drop' instead of the standard 20 centimes. Politely say, "khoya, tarif de jour âafak" (my brother, please put on the day fare). A driver, feeling ashamed, will often reset the meter to zero, losing money in the process. Also, ensure the meter returns to 'your meter' after another passenger has alighted, as this could be a tactic to obscure a night fare or simply continue charging the previous fare. Always ask 'innocently' if your meter is being displayed.
The Scenic Route Scam
A classic worldwide taxi issue, this involves drivers taking longer routes. While genuine reasons like traffic jams, roadworks, or new one-way streets exist, some detours are deliberate. The best defence is to monitor your route on a GPS app like Waze or Herewego, which provides alternative routes and accounts for one-way systems. Sharing a taxi offers a natural safeguard against this, as local Moroccan passengers will know their city well and immediately challenge any unwarranted detours.
The Condition of the Vehicle
It's true that many Moroccan taxis, particularly older ones, appear worn out. Being a taxi driver is an expensive profession, and maximising returns often means minimising additional costs like vehicle maintenance. However, government initiatives over recent years have heavily subsidised vehicle replacements, leading to an increasing number of newer, more comfortable taxis, many of which are now produced in Morocco.
Dealing with Troublesome Drivers
While a minority, some drivers can be challenging. This might include aggressive driving, rude behaviour, imposing unwanted music or radio (though a wilaya instruction states you have the right to request silence), refusing to drop you exactly where you want, or engaging in intrusive conversations with personal questions. In very rare cases, there might be issues of inappropriate personal boundaries. Always prioritise your safety and comfort. However, it's worth noting that many drivers are genuinely kind, professional, and keen to share stories of their city, offering a glimpse into Moroccan life.
Ensuring Your Safety
Despite occasional scary stories, feeling unsafe in a Moroccan taxi is rare. The primary risk comes from opportunistic pickpockets. To enhance your sense of security:
- Taxis rarely have central locking, so ensure your door is securely locked.
- Avoid using your mobile phone 'street-side'; hold it with your left hand if seated on the right.
- Do not leave your wallet or purse open near an open window.
- Be cautious with beggars at crossroads; some may try to distract you to grab belongings through an open window.
Booking a Taxi: Modern Solutions and Traditional Methods
Booking a taxi in Morocco hasn't always been straightforward, but modern solutions are emerging.
App-Based Services: Careem and Heetch
While Uber faced legal challenges and departed Morocco, companies like Careem (headquartered in Dubai) have established a strong presence, offering quality service at reasonable prices. Heetch, a French company that adapted its model to work with professional drivers and engaged with taxi unions, also operates successfully. These apps provide a convenient way to book a taxi and track your ride, bringing a layer of predictability to the experience.
Traditional Booking: Finding Your Own Driver or Company
Beyond apps, you can try to get the mobile numbers of reliable taxi drivers for future journeys. Always confirm their availability and schedule. Some traditional taxi companies still operate, such as the green taxis in Casablanca (05.22.48.48.01) and Marrakech (05.24.40.94.94), though online reviews about their service quality can be mixed. These are genuine taxi services, unlike tourist transport companies which charge higher rates.
Frequently Asked Questions About Moroccan Taxis
Are Moroccan taxis safe for tourists?
Yes, Moroccan taxis are generally safe. While minor scams (like meter issues) can occur, serious safety incidents are rare. Follow basic precautions like securing your belongings and being aware of your surroundings.
Do I need to haggle for taxi fares?
For petit taxis, the meter is compulsory in large cities, so haggling is not necessary and should be avoided. For grand taxis, which have fixed rates for different distances, these rates are often negotiable, so it's wise to ask around or negotiate politely.
Can I pay with a card or app?
Most Moroccan taxis only accept cash (dirhams). However, app-based services like Careem and Heetch offer in-app payment options, providing a convenient alternative.
What's the difference between day and night fares?
Night fares are 50% higher than day fares. The night schedule varies by season: 8 PM to 6 AM in winter (Oct-Apr) and 9 PM to 5 AM in summer (May-Sep).
Yes, sharing a taxi ('marauding') is a very common and accepted practice for petit taxis, especially in busy areas. Drivers will pick up multiple passengers heading in the same general direction.
What should I do if a driver refuses to use the meter?
If a petit taxi driver refuses to use the meter in a city where it's compulsory, politely insist. If they still refuse, it's best to find another taxi. The meter is your protection against overcharging.
How much should I tip a taxi driver?
Tipping is discretionary. For short rides under the minimum fare, drivers might round up by 50 centimes. For longer journeys, a tip of 1-3 dirhams for good service, or 5-10 dirhams for exceptional service or if you have a lot of luggage, is generally appreciated.
In conclusion, navigating Moroccan taxis, while initially appearing complex, is an integral and often enjoyable part of the travel experience. By understanding the distinction between petit and grand taxis, familiarising yourself with fare structures, and being aware of common practices like ride-sharing and potential minor scams, you can ensure smooth and cost-effective journeys. And to answer the burning question: no, Moroccan taxi drivers generally do not earn 'bezaf'; their low fares and operational costs mean they work hard for their income. Your informed approach and fair dealings will contribute to a positive experience for both you and the drivers, allowing you to fully embrace the vibrant tapestry of Morocco.
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