01/12/2016
Kotor, Montenegro, has rapidly emerged as a jewel of the Adriatic, drawing countless visitors with its ancient walls, labyrinthine streets, and breathtaking bay views. Yet, beneath its picturesque exterior lies a public transport system that, while budget-friendly, can often be a source of confusion and chaos for travellers. Our recent nine-day stay in this beautiful region highlighted the stark contrast between the often-packed and disorganised local buses and the surprising ease offered by alternative transport options. While we initially championed public transport, the realities of Kotor's bus network, particularly for journeys further afield, quickly shifted our perspective. This article delves into the nuances of getting around Kotor, revealing why, for many, the local taxi services and private transfers prove to be the most efficient and comfortable choice, especially when contemplating trips to destinations like Dubrovnik.
For those arriving in Kotor, the primary hub for public transportation is a small, often bustling bus station. Despite its compact size, navigating it can be far from straightforward. The station serves both domestic routes, with schedules posted on a physical door, and international routes, typically displayed on an internal screen. While online platforms like BusTicket4.me offer a way to check schedules and purchase tickets in advance, a paper ticket is usually required for domestic journeys, often negating the convenience of online booking for shorter hops.
Boarding: A Lesson in Chaos
The boarding process itself is an experience. Numbered bays exist, but there's rarely clear signage indicating where your specific bus will depart from. Instead, a station attendant, often referred to as the 'Orange Shirt' lady, orchestrates the departures, yelling out bus destinations in Montenegrin. This system, coupled with buses that aren't clearly marked with their final destination but rather a list of stops, frequently leads to scenes of bewildered tourists trying to decipher which vehicle is theirs. We observed countless instances of passengers showing tickets for buses yet to arrive or, worse, for the wrong service entirely. Add to this the occasional histrionics of bus drivers who might yell at passengers attempting to board prematurely, and you have a truly memorable, if not entirely relaxing, pre-journey spectacle.
Local Journeys by Bus: Budva and Perast
Our day trip to Budva, a popular coastal city just 30 minutes from Kotor, provided a firsthand taste of this bus-riding adventure. Despite arriving 20 minutes early, the journey was marked by late departures and the usual 'is-this-our-bus' confusion. The coach-type buses, though older, were generally comfortable, albeit with weak air conditioning, and every seat was occupied. A crucial note for those with luggage: the overhead racks are surprisingly small, barely accommodating an average-sized travel backpack. The return journey from Budva, while slightly more organised at its larger station, still presented similar boarding challenges.
Getting to Perast, another essential day trip from Kotor, involves a different bus system entirely: the Blueline Bus. This local network operates from various roadside stops rather than the main bus station. These stops, marked by a blue sign and a yellow zone on the road, can be unobtrusive, but once found, offer a convenient and incredibly affordable way to reach Perast for around 1.50 Euros. The Blueline buses are smaller, but comfortable, and offer spectacular views of the Bay of Kotor if you secure a seat on the bay side. However, be mindful of your return; catching the bus from the north stop in Perast is highly recommended to ensure a seat, as the south stop often sees buses already packed.
Enter the Taxis: A Local Solution
Given the challenges of the public bus system, many visitors inevitably turn to taxis for convenience. It's important to note that ride-sharing apps like Uber are not available in Kotor. Instead, you'll rely on traditional taxi services. Among these, Red Taxi stands out as the #1 rated Kotor taxi service on Tripadvisor, and our experience with them was overwhelmingly positive.
Booking a Red Taxi is remarkably simple: a quick message via WhatsApp to their main number is all it takes, and a driver is dispatched swiftly to your location. Our ride to the Kotor Cable Car, a highly recommended experience, cost a very reasonable 7 Euros and was metered, ensuring transparency. For shorter distances within the Kotor area or for destinations not ideally served by the Blueline bus, Red Taxi offers a seamless and comfortable alternative. However, for longer, more scenic routes like Perast, the 30 Euro taxi fare makes the 1.50 Euro Blueline Bus a far more economical choice.
The Dubrovnik Dilemma: When Taxis Become Essential
For many travellers, a trip to Kotor is often paired with a visit to Dubrovnik, Croatia. Despite being only 56 miles apart, the journey between these two popular destinations is surprisingly complex. The connection is via a two-lane highway, complicated by a border crossing between Montenegro (non-EU) and Croatia (EU), which involves two separate stops. Traffic congestion, especially during peak seasons, can transform this short distance into a lengthy ordeal.
The Bus to Dubrovnik: A Gamble
Initially, taking the bus seemed like the logical, budget-friendly option for our Kotor to Dubrovnik transfer. However, insights from fellow travellers quickly sowed seeds of doubt. Tales of lengthy border searches, with Croatian authorities meticulously inspecting every piece of luggage on buses, painted a picture of potential five-hour delays for a journey that should take less than three. Witnessing the packed Dubrovnik-bound buses, laden with luggage, confirmed our fears about potential border bottlenecks and the sheer discomfort of travelling with five pieces of luggage on a crowded bus.
The Better Way: Private Transfer with Transfer Novi
Our search for an alternative led us to Transfer Novi, a private transportation company based in Herceg Novi, a Montenegrin city near the border. Their quoted price of 120 Euros for a private transfer from Kotor to Dubrovnik initially seemed high, but a quick calculation showed its true value. Compared to bus tickets (26 Euros each), luggage fees, and an additional Uber from Dubrovnik bus station to our accommodation (easily totalling 70 Euros), the extra cost for a private transfer felt entirely justifiable for the peace of mind and convenience it offered.
Our experience with Transfer Novi was exceptional. Booking via WhatsApp was effortless, and the owner, Nikola, was prompt and helpful. On the day of our transfer, our driver, Njegos, arrived early, assisting with luggage right from our doorstep. The journey itself was a pleasure. Njegos, with his excellent English, made the time fly by with engaging conversations about local life, politics, and even NBA basketball. More profoundly, he shared poignant personal experiences from the Yugoslav Wars, offering a unique, human perspective on the region's history.
The border crossing, often the most daunting part of the journey, was incredibly smooth. Njegos utilised a less-used back road crossing, which added only a few miles but drastically reduced waiting times. With only one car ahead of us, and a brief, professional interaction with border officials, we were waved through with minimal fuss. Our entire journey from Kotor to our Airbnb in Dubrovnik's Lapad suburb took just under 2.5 hours, a stark contrast to the five-hour ordeal experienced by bus passengers. This significant time-saving, coupled with the comfort, direct drop-off, and fascinating conversation, made the private transfer an invaluable investment.
Choosing Your Ride: When to Bus, When to Taxi
Deciding on the best transport option in Kotor boils down to balancing budget, convenience, and destination:
- For short, local trips within Kotor Bay (e.g., to Perast, or nearby towns): The Blueline Bus is your most economical option, offering a scenic and authentic local experience for just a few Euros.
- For convenience within Kotor itself or to specific attractions (e.g., Kotor Cable Car): Red Taxi is highly recommended. Their reliability, metered fares, and easy WhatsApp booking make them an excellent choice for hassle-free travel, especially if you prefer door-to-door service without navigating bus schedules.
- For the Kotor to Dubrovnik journey: A private transfer with a company like Transfer Novi is, in our strong opinion, the superior choice. While more expensive, the dramatic time savings, smooth border crossing, comfort, and personalised service far outweigh the cost of a potentially gruelling bus journey. It's an investment in your travel experience and peace of mind.
Practical Advice for Getting Around Kotor
Regardless of your chosen mode of transport, a few tips can enhance your experience:
- Flexibility: Be prepared for slight delays, especially with public transport.
- Local Currency: Always have Euros in small denominations for bus fares and taxi rides.
- Communication: While some English is spoken at bus stations and by taxi drivers, having a translation app ready can be helpful.
- Confirm Your Destination: When boarding buses, double-check with the driver or a local if possible, as markings can be confusing.
- Consider Luggage: If travelling with significant luggage, taxis or private transfers offer far greater comfort and less hassle than crowded buses with limited storage.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Are there Uber or other ride-sharing apps in Kotor?
No, popular ride-sharing apps like Uber are not available in Kotor. Your best bet for on-demand car service is to use local taxi companies like Red Taxi.
How much is a taxi in Kotor?
Taxi fares in Kotor are typically metered. For example, a ride with Red Taxi to the Kotor Cable Car might cost around 7 Euros. Longer distances, such as to Perast, could be around 30 Euros. Always confirm if the meter is in use or agree on a price beforehand for longer journeys.
Is the bus system reliable in Kotor?
The bus system in Kotor is operational and serves its purpose for budget travel, but it can be confusing, chaotic, and prone to delays. Reliability in terms of strict adherence to schedules or clear information can be an issue, especially at the main bus station.
What is the best way to get from Kotor to Dubrovnik?
While the bus is the only public transport option, a private transfer, such as with Transfer Novi, is widely considered the best and most efficient way to travel from Kotor to Dubrovnik. It offers significant time savings, a smoother border crossing, and greater comfort, making it worth the extra cost.
Can I pay by card in Kotor taxis?
It's always best to assume that taxis in Kotor operate on a cash-only basis. While some might have card machines, cash (Euros) is universally accepted and preferred.
Final Thoughts
Kotor is a truly captivating destination, and navigating its transport options is part of the adventure. While public transportation offers an economical way to explore parts of the region, its inherent confusion and disorganisation can be a source of stress. For local convenience, Red Taxi provides a reliable and highly-rated service. However, for significant journeys like the often-challenging route to Dubrovnik, investing in a private transfer with a company like Transfer Novi is unequivocally the superior choice. The peace of mind, time savings, and enhanced comfort make it a truly worthwhile expenditure, ensuring your Montenegrin and Croatian adventures remain focused on enjoyment rather than logistical frustrations.
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