Makronisos: Greece's Forgotten Prison Island

Sailing from Lavrion towards the island of Kea, much of the journey is spent navigating around a long, barren island. What greets the eye are the crumbling ruins of old buildings and little else but rocks. This is Makronisos, a Greek island that has earned a grim reputation, often likened to Greece's answer to Alcatraz. However, the inhabitants of Makronisos were not the hardened criminals, murderers, and thugs typically associated with such infamous prisons. Instead, Makronisos became the final destination for many who had bravely fought to liberate Greece from German occupation during World War Two. Tragically, these very individuals met their end at the hands of their own countrymen, subjected to torture and death simply because of their political beliefs. The men who lived and died on this desolate isle were, in essence, the first victims of the Cold War.

The story of Makronisos is inextricably linked to the tumultuous aftermath of World War II in Greece. In October 1944, the German army, which had occupied Greece, began its retreat. Their presence in Greece had been a period of immense suffering. While the Greek government and army had themselves retreated from Greece upon the initial German arrival, the Greek resistance, largely communist in its composition, relentlessly harassed the occupiers from their mountain strongholds and urban bases. Upon liberation, the Greek government returned, with George Papandreou (father of the later Prime Minister Andreas Papandreou) serving as Prime Minister. A government of national unity was formed, initially sharing power with the left. However, this fragile peace was short-lived. A pre-determined agreement made at Yalta by the leaders of the USA, Great Britain, and the Soviet Union, which carved up spheres of influence in Europe, decreed that Greece would not be allowed to fall under communist influence. The mere possibility of the left having any significant role in the Greek political landscape was deeply unsettling to the leaders of the 'free world', despite the fact that the left had been the primary force of resistance against the Nazi regime.

The Seeds of Conflict: Post-War Greece

Following Churchill's directives, General Scoby initiated political manoeuvres aimed at undermining the communists, ultimately forcing their resignation from the government. The situation escalated dramatically on December 3rd, when a peaceful demonstration in Syntagma Square was met with gunfire from police snipers, resulting in the tragic deaths of innocent civilians. This event ignited the 'Dekembriana', the December uprising, which raged until January 5th. The subsequent Treaty of Varkiza in February saw the communists surrender their weapons. This act, intended to foster peace, paradoxically left them vulnerable to right-wing criminal militias. These militias, many of whom had collaborated with the Nazis, now found themselves backed by the British, who actively pursued and persecuted members of the resistance and their families. In March 1946, the first elections were held, but the communist party's decision to boycott them proved to be a fatal miscalculation. From that point onwards, they were effectively relegated to the fringes of the Greek political system, excluded from participation.

The period following the Treaty of Varkiza witnessed atrocities committed by the right against the left that rivalled the crimes of the Nazis. Official figures documented 1,289 murders, 31,632 instances of torture, and 30,000 imprisonments. Widespread rape, looting, and destruction of property were also reported. Thus, in 1946, while much of Europe was celebrating the end of World War Two and striving to rebuild, Greece plunged into another era of profound suffering. The Greek Civil War erupted, with the British offering their support to the most reactionary elements of Greek society. Leftist parties such as the KKE, ELAS, and EPON were outlawed. Military tribunals were established across the country, leading to the execution of thousands of leftists. An estimated 50,000 were imprisoned, and tens of thousands more were exiled to remote islands.

Makronisos: The Island of 'Re-education'

It was in 1946, under a government directive from Prime Minister Sofoulis, that communists of draft age were systematically sent to the barren island of Makronisos. Located off the coast of Attica, between the town of Lavrion and the island of Kea, Makronisos was to become a symbol of state repression. In later years, the future Prime Minister Kannelopoulos, who himself would later be overthrown by the Junta, infamously referred to Makronisos as 'Greece's new Parthenon'. He would later express deep regret for this statement.

The official objective behind establishing Makronisos was to 'rehabilitate' these 'bad' Greeks into model citizens. Despite their crucial role in the national resistance against the German occupation, they were now branded as 'traitors' and 'enemies of the state'. The so-called rehabilitation process, chillingly termed the 'Baptistry of Siloam', involved systematic torture, exposure to extreme weather conditions in tents, deliberate starvation and thirst, solitary confinement, threats, and intensive brainwashing. The ultimate aim was to break the prisoners' spirit, compelling them to sign declarations admitting wrongdoing and seeking forgiveness. Once their will was subjugated, they were often sent to the front lines to fight against their former comrades. Those who refused to sign faced military tribunal courts, execution by firing squad, or prolonged imprisonment in the Military Prison of Makronisos. The vast majority, however, were left on the island to endure a continuous cycle of torture and abuse.

In the northern sector of Makronisos, civilians and officers were confined in what was designated as D Battalion. Here, groups of 500 men were crammed into tents, with fourteen men sharing a single tent. These groups were further isolated from each other by fifteen-foot-high barbed-wire fences. Conditions in A Battalion were reportedly even worse, with prisoners subjected to brutal beatings and torture using bats, iron bars, and bamboo canes. These assaults resulted in broken bones, spinal injuries, blindness, severe psychological trauma, and, tragically, the deaths of thousands of prisoners. Disturbingly, these atrocities continued even after the official end of the Civil War in 1949.

The Lingering Shadow of Repression

As time progressed, many left-wing fighters, who simply yearned to return home and resume their lives, found themselves unable to do so. They lived in constant fear of reprisals. In 1949, as communist forces retreated towards Eastern Bloc countries, an infamous edict was issued, commanding all fighters to remain ready for a potential re-attack. While this directive was ultimately unfounded, it provided the right-wing governments with the pretext they needed to relentlessly prosecute all leftist sympathizers, not just communists. Consequently, many found themselves incarcerated on Makronisos.

The military junta that seized power in Greece between 1967 and 1973 further utilized the island, repopulating it with inmates during their rule. Today, Makronisos stands deserted, its dark history of torture and cruelty, which unfolded half a century ago, fading into a near-forgotten memory for all but those who endured its horrors. While the Greek islands typically evoke images of summer holidays, sunshine, swimming, and lively taverna evenings, Makronisos serves as a stark reminder of a different, more sinister aspect of Greece's past. It demonstrates how man's inhumanity to his fellow man can transform any idyllic setting into a veritable hell.

A Call for Remembrance

Similar to the concentration camps found in Poland and Germany, the island of Makronisos deserves to be accessible to the public. It should feature exhibitions with photographs and detailed descriptions of the atrocities that transpired during those shameful days. This is not merely for historical record but, crucially, to ensure that such events are never repeated. Perhaps the most poignant tragedy is that the more recent, brutal history of Makronisos has overshadowed the island's significance in ancient times. It is a little-known fact that Macronissos was once a place of refuge for the beautiful Helen during the outbreak of the Trojan War.

Here is a comparative table of conditions on Makronisos:

Frequently Asked Questions about Makronisos:

1. What is Makronisos? Makronisos is a Greek island that served as a political prison and forced labour camp, primarily for left-wing opponents during and after the Greek Civil War.
2. When was Makronisos in operation? The island was most notoriously used from 1946 until the end of the military junta in 1973, with significant periods of intense activity in the late 1940s and 1950s.
3. Who were imprisoned on Makronisos? Primarily individuals accused of communist sympathies or involvement in left-wing resistance movements, many of whom had fought against the Nazis.
4. What were the conditions like on Makronisos? Conditions were extremely harsh, involving severe torture, starvation, exposure to the elements, and psychological abuse, often referred to as 're-education'.
5. Is Makronisos open to the public? While deserted, efforts are being made to preserve the site and acknowledge its history. Access may be limited, but its historical significance is increasingly recognised.
6. Why is Makronisos compared to Alcatraz? Both islands served as notorious prisons, but Makronisos's distinction lies in its specific role as a site of political persecution and brutal ideological 're-education' in post-war Greece.