Carnac: Your UK Traveller's Guide to Brittany's Megaliths

For any British traveller seeking a journey back in time, away from the hustle and bustle of city life, the ancient landscapes of Carnac in Brittany, France, present an irresistible allure. Known primarily for its enigmatic alignments of standing stones, this peaceful seaside resort in the Morbihan region, nestled within the beautiful Bay of Quiberon, offers far more than just historical intrigue. As someone accustomed to navigating the intricacies of travel logistics, I appreciate a destination that, while steeped in history, is also practical to visit. This guide will help you plan your visit, focusing on how to get there, how to get around, and what truly makes Carnac a must-see for those who appreciate ancient wonders.

The sheer scale of the Carnac alignments is what truly captivates; extending for nearly 4 kilometres, these lines of menhirs range from mere dozens of centimetres to several towering metres. Their purpose remains a subject of intense debate and fascinating local legends – from a giant agricultural calendar aligned with the sun to a petrified army. Whatever their true meaning, these Neolithic stones, dating back thousands of years, stand as a profound testament to a past we are still striving to comprehend. Forget any Asterix and Obelix preconceptions; this is history on a truly grand scale.

Getting to Carnac: A UK Traveller's Perspective

For UK visitors, reaching Carnac typically involves a combination of air, rail, and road. The most straightforward approach for many is to drive, allowing ultimate flexibility once you arrive. However, if you prefer to let someone else handle the longer journeys, flying into nearby airports such as Lorient or Nantes is a viable option. From these airports, you can then connect to the rail network.

The closest major train station to Carnac is in Auray. Once you arrive at Auray station, the final leg of your journey to Carnac is easily completed. Local bus services operate regularly, providing a convenient link. For those who prefer a more direct and private transfer, particularly if you have luggage or are travelling with family, utilising a local taxi service from Auray station is highly recommended. Companies like Allo Carnac Taxi specialise in transfers not only from Auray but also from Vannes and Lorient train stations, and even further afield from Lorient, Nantes, or Paris airports. Opting for a taxi ensures a secure and comfortable journey, allowing you to relax and anticipate your arrival in Carnac.

Navigating Carnac: Getting Around the Ancient Sites

Once you've settled into Carnac, exploring the vast area of megalithic sites requires some planning. The scale of the territory is surprising, with multiple stone alignments and other ancient structures dotted across the landscape. Fortunately, there are several excellent ways to get around, catering to different preferences and paces.

Exploring on Foot

For the keen walker, a network of pleasant, flat footpaths connects many of the megalithic sites. This allows for a truly immersive experience, letting you wander at your own pace through what is considered the highest concentration of megaliths in the world. It’s an incredibly rewarding way to appreciate the sheer number and mystery of these ancient stones.

Driving and Parking in Carnac

If you have your own vehicle or have hired one, driving between the sites offers speed and convenience, allowing you to maximise your exploration in a single day. When driving on a two-way street in France, parking or stopping should always be on the right-hand side, in the direction of traffic flow, alongside the pavement. Parking or stopping on the left is prohibited. Parking is generally permitted in designated car parks or marked spaces.

Finding free parking in Carnac can be a bonus. For instance, guests staying at the Hotel Le Churchill benefit from complimentary on-site parking. While this hotel is a little outside the immediate vicinity of the main alignments, it’s worth noting for those planning their accommodation. The Maison des Mégalithes also has a spacious car park, making it an ideal starting point for your visit.

Organised Tours: A Relaxed Approach

For a guided and hassle-free experience, Carnac offers a variety of unique tour options:

• Mini-Bus Tours: Carnac Visio Tour provides 40-minute or one-hour mini-bus tours. With an open roof for easy photography and an audioguide available in multiple languages (including English) and even a children's version, this is a comfortable way to see the sites. The route extends beyond the megaliths to include picturesque areas like the Kervillen salt marshes and La Trinité-sur-Mer port.
• Tourist Train: A charming small tourist train also offers tours, with three convenient departure points: the Maison des Mégalithes car park, Port en Pro at Carnac Plage, and the “Cours des quais” bus stop at La Trinité-sur-Mer Port.
• Unique Transport: Since 2018, you can explore the alignments aboard an electric tuk-tuk with Carnac Tuk Tour or embark on a "menhir escapade" by gyropod with Mobilboard. These offer a fun and memorable way to see the sites.

For those who prefer self-guided exploration but appreciate some assistance, a free smartphone application is available to help you discover the three main sites: Le Ménec, Kerlescan, and Kermario. This digital guide can be invaluable for understanding the layouts and historical context.

The Majestic Megaliths of Carnac: Sites to Visit

Your journey into the Neolithic past ideally begins at the Maison des Mégalithes. Refurbished in 2018, this visitor centre offers free admission and provides essential context before you venture out. Its opening hours vary by season, so it’s worth checking in advance. Here, you'll gain valuable insights that will enrich your subsequent exploration of the standing stones.

Le Ménec Site

Directly opposite the Maison des Mégalithes, the Le Ménec site is the most accessible and often the starting point for visitors. It boasts the highest number of menhirs, with 1050 stones aligned in 11 distinct rows. What makes Le Ménec particularly striking is the clear demonstration of the alignment concept; the stones are arranged in increasing order of size, with regular spacing that clearly defines the rows. It’s an ideal place to appreciate the incredible precision of these ancient builders.

Kermario Alignments

A short distance away, the Kermario alignments feature some of the largest monoliths in the Brittany region. Here, 1029 menhirs are arranged in 10 rows. Nearby, you'll find the impressive Géant du Manio, Carnac’s tallest menhir, standing at a remarkable 6.50 metres, along with the curious quadrilatère du Manio. These sites offer a sense of awe at the sheer size of the stones and the effort involved in their placement.

Kerlescan & Petit Menec

The alignments at Kerlescan are somewhat more modest in scale, comprising 555 megaliths in 13 rows. This site is complemented by the nearby Petit Menec. While smaller, they contribute to the overall impression of this incredibly rich archaeological landscape.

Beyond the famous alignments, Carnac also features other significant Neolithic structures. You can explore tumuli, such as the Tumulus du Moustoir and the Tumulus Saint Michel, and the Dolmen de Kercado, all offering different insights into the burial practices and rituals of the Neolithic period.

Carnac vs. Locmariaquer: Which to Visit?

Given their proximity (about ten kilometres apart), many visitors wonder whether to visit both Carnac and Locmariaquer. My advice is to visit both, as they offer complementary insights into the Neolithic era.

Here’s a quick comparison:

Carnac truly showcases the mystery and scale of the aligned stones, while Locmariaquer offers a deeper look into the intricate funerary architecture of the period. Both provide a powerful sense of ancient history and are definitely worth the journey.

What to Do in Carnac When the Weather Turns

Even in beautiful Brittany, the weather can be unpredictable. But don't let a bit of rain dampen your spirits! Carnac offers several excellent indoor activities:

• Explore the interactive exhibits at the Maison des Mégalithes.
• Take a tour of the alignments on the comfortable tourist train – a perfect way to stay dry while still seeing the sights.
• Delve deeper into the region's past at the Carnac Museum of Prehistory, home to a wealth of artefacts.
• Indulge in a relaxing day of thalassotherapy (note: the centre will be closed for renovation in 2024).

Exploring Beyond Carnac: Nearby Attractions

The Morbihan region is packed with attractions, making Carnac an excellent base for further exploration:

• Enjoy watersports and the vibrant atmosphere at La Trinité-sur-Mer.
• Savour a drink on a terrace at the picturesque Port de Saint-Goustan in Auray.
• Discover the distinct megaliths of Locmariaquer, as discussed earlier.
• Spend a weekend exploring the stunning Quiberon Peninsula, known for its dramatic coastline and beautiful beaches.

Other Megalithic Wonders in Morbihan

For those truly captivated by ancient stones, the Morbihan region offers even more:

• The megaliths of Locmariaquer (mentioned above).
• The alignments of menhirs at Kerbourgnec in Saint-Pierre Quiberon.
• The impressive Rocher Tumulus de Kernours in Le Bono.
• The magnificent Cairn de Gavrinis in the Gulf of Morbihan.
• The Cairn de Petit Mont in Arzon.
• The Menhirs de Monteneuf.
• The Allée Couverte de Kerjagu in Colpo, among many others.

Practicalities for Your Visit: The Megaliths Pass

To make your exploration of these ancient wonders even more rewarding, consider purchasing the Megaliths Pass. This pass offers preferential rates from your second visited monument onwards and covers four major megalithic sites and the Carnac Museum of Prehistory. The participating sites include the Cairn de Gavrinis, the Locmariaquer Megaliths, the Cairn du Petit-Mont in Arzon, the Carnac Alignments (specifically for guided tours), and the Carnac Museum of Prehistory. It's important to note that the pass must be purchased at one of the participating sites during your first visit, as it is not sold at tourist offices.

Guided Tour Prices (2024)

If you choose to take a guided tour (which is the only way to access the Carnac alignments directly from April to September), here are the general individual prices:

• Standard Adult (18+ years & Education Pass holders): €13
• Partnership Rate (Megaliths Pass holders & other partners): €11
• Specific Rate (7-17 years, architecture students, job seekers, social welfare recipients, civil disabled, war veterans & their companions, Passion Monuments Card holders): €6
• Free Admission (Under 7s with family, CMN Culture Card, CMN lecturers, guide-lecturers): Free

Remember, from October to March, the Carnac alignments are accessible for free self-guided visits. However, the fences are low, so even during the guided tour season, you can still get an excellent view of the megaliths from the roadside. Visiting in the off-season, perhaps in autumn, especially during a misty morning, can create an incredibly atmospheric and mysterious experience, making you feel like you have the ancient stones almost to yourself before 9 am. It's a truly unique way to connect with the historical landscape.

In conclusion, Carnac offers an unparalleled blend of ancient history, natural beauty, and modern convenience for the British traveller. Whether you choose to explore independently by car, embark on a guided tour, or utilise local taxi services for seamless transfers, the exploration of these magnificent megaliths promises a memorable and thought-provoking adventure. It’s a destination that truly delivers on its promise of an extraordinary journey into the past, all within the beautiful setting of Brittany.

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